Australian Private Reserve (APR) came and went over the course of about 3 years or so. In that time it got a lot of international attention for an Australian shaving artisan.
This post is not intended to discuss any aspects of the APR business operations. Those discussions have been had in shaving forums across the globe. This post aims to focus on the APR project and capture for posterity details of some of what it produced.
Background
Australian Private Reserve (APR) started as a DIY Aftershave Splash Project. You can read more on the origins and how the process unfolded on this thread at Paste & Cut.
As he indicates in the thread, the founder had ‘no experience making perfume’. The name ‘Private Reserve’ was chosen for the project as it is ‘the name traditionally given to non commercial, or private fragrances’. While the project was nominally to make aftershaves the initial proposed composition actually pushed the products into the EDT levels of concentrations of essential oils.
“Private Reserve is the name traditionally given to non commercial, or private fragrances.”
Thread – Private Reserve – DIY Aftershave Splash Project
To give a sense of the back and forth and ‘evolution’ in the early days, the initial proposed composition, of a 100 ml splash, was proposed to be:
- 44 ml Perfumers Alcohol
- 40 ml Witchhazel
- 10 ml Glycerine
- 6 ml Essential oil
The need to add Polysorbate 20 or similar product and other fine tuning became evident after a little while as you can read in that thread. The ratios outlined above then changed to (making 100ml of Aftershave Splash at 6% Strength):
- 55 ml Perfumers Alcohol
- 24 ml Witch Hazel (14% alcohol Witch Hazel)
- 14 ml Polysorb 20
- 6 ml Essential Oils
- 0.5 ml Glycerine
This only gives a total of 99.5 ml, with the extra 0.5 ml now kept for the addition of:
- more polysorb-20 after mixing if necessary to clear up a cloudy solution, or
- if the solution is clear enough, an extra .5 ml of alcohol or witch hazel.
It was very much a learning process in those early days, and a time where a lot of money was spent on equipment for this new hobby.
Australian Private Reserve First Batch
In November 2016 the first batch was released as detailed here. The names and descriptions of those scents are described as outlined below.
PC – Un côtelette de porc – Pork Chop
This is a traditional vetiver based on a discontinued Vetiver by Creed. I don’t for a second think that I have achieved anything even close to Creed’s masterpiece. Vetivers are traditionally darker, woody scents that are autumnal or wintery in nature. They are deep, earthy, damp scents by their very nature.
Composition: Haitian Vetiver, French Oakmoss Absolute, Virginian Cedar Wood, Italian Bergamot, French Lavender, Australian Sweet Orange (NO), French Ginger
GL – les généraux du grand livre – The Generals Ledger
In the modern vocabulary of perfumery, this is a bright Fougère. A traditional Fougère has strong notes of grasses, ferns, damp earth with a slight, top note to brighten it up.
Modern Fougère varieties are generally more floral or, in this case ‘brighter’ – they have multiple notes to lighten them up, make them slightly floral and more welcoming. Another keeper, I am very pleased with this scent (I like the smell personally) and I particularly like the name and in effect tribute to the man himself, all round good guy with an epic razor collection and an equally epic number of spreadsheets.
Composition: French Oakmoss Absolute, Haitian Vetiver, Venezuelan Tonka, French Lavender, Nutmeg, Cinnamon Bark, Egyptian Geranium, Italian Bergamot, Rose Maroc.
AC –choix Alfredus – Alfredus Choice
This is a scent that I made for a friend who happens to be part of the ‘Euro ‘A’ list limited edition shave kit set’, chemist extraordinaire and another all-round good guy. I asked him to name some scents he liked, he did so and thus it was named.
Best described as a traditional Fougère although one that is woody with subdued citrus notes from the White Grapefruit and Bergamot. As this is Alfredus choice, and as yet he has not tried it, the formula may change if he advises me he does not like it, or wants emphasis on certain notes .
Composition: Ambergris, Venezuelan Tonka, French Oakmoss Absolute, Indian Mysore Sandalwood, French Ginger, Virginian Cedarwood, Nutmeg, French Lavender, French Violet, White Grapefruit, Italian Bergamot, Basil.
SV – Sandalwood, Lime, Verbena
This came about as I was dissatisfied with the ‘L’Occitane Verveine’ EDT that I paid $70 for. The problem with citrus EO’s and Verbena in particular is that scent doesn’t last.
Citrus top notes – Lemon, Lime and Verbena particularly are notoriously short lived.I set to making one that would last a little longer, after 15 or 20 formulas I hit upon one that I feel works. It’s nice, but simple – I will keep a bottle kicking around as I like the Verbena scents in summer.
This accord uses Essential Oils and Verbena Fragrance Oil. The next batch I do will Verbena EO that is quite expensive, but is a fragrance I really like in the hot humid months.
Composition: Australian Sandalwood, Lime, Spanish Lemon, Fragrance Oil
CS – Coconut Sandalwood
The first of the ‘Mystic’ companions, this one is for the limited edition Coconut Sandalwood. I have worked on the scent slightly and added essential oils alongside the fragrance oil that is used in the original soap.
This accord uses Essential Oils and Coconut Fragrance Oil.
Composition: Australian Sandalwood, Indian Mysore Sandalwood, Rosewood Oil (NO), Fragrance Oil.
WG – White Tea & Ginger
The second of the Mystic companions, again I spent some time with the scent of the original and made a few slight alterations to the Fragrance oil base adding one or two EO’s for longevity and roundness of the tea.
This accord uses Fragrance oil and Essential Oils
Composition: French Ginger, Venezuelan Tonka, Fragrance Oil.
SA – Suitably Attired Australian
Imagine a suitable attired gentlemen taking a leisurely walk surrounded by Green eucalyptus trees that remind him of tweed. He chances upon an Irish traveller who makes the Stirling suggestion that they take tea together.
This is another ‘interpretation’ of Creed’s Green Irish Tweed that uses the same Fragrance oil that Stirling and Mystic use in their GIT interpretations.
I have added EO’s for longevity and to liven up the heart and tops as the Fragrance Oil itself is fairly short lived and rather synthetic. It was fun to dabble, I quite like the scent but I am more interested in pure EO formulations and making something new and interesting. This is a one off.
This accord uses Essential Oils and Fragrance oil.
Composition: Ambergris, Indian Mysore Sandalwood, French Violet, Spanish Lemon, Rosemary, Australian Sweet Orange, Fragrance Oil.
Australian Private Reserve was born!
A week later a few more scents were added –
‘EB’ – Easterly Breeze
This is one I have been working on for some weeks and came about from my correspondence with a certain soap-maker renowned for making exceptionally good artisan soaps. I happened to mention that I had acquired a tub of his particular soap which he was no longer making and explained that I was having some degree of trouble trying to pair it with a balm and splash.
This is an ‘unofficial’ scent, it is not endorsed or encouraged by the maker and it is the result of my own hard won formula to get the ratios as close to the soap as I can. I will say though that the Portuguese word for breeze is ‘Brisa’
Composition: Myrrh, Vanilla, Cinnamon, Basil, Cardamom
‘TB’ – sachet de thé (Tea Bag)
I sat with a tea-bag of Earl Grey in one hand and my ‘kit’ in the other determined and resolute – such a beautiful scent.
My intention in making this one is to pair with one of my favourite soaps from a highly skilled, highly popular US Artisan who currently does not have a splash or a balm for his particular soap. It is a homage and nothing beyond that but by golly does it smell so good!
Composition: Patchouli, Lavender, Clary Sage, Bergamot, Neroli, Mandarin
‘LO’ l’endroit orange
If you will, possibly climb the hill to the great city of… a great traditional barber shop scent.
Again another of my favourite soaps without a balm or splash, the same artisan who I have so much respect for and whose products I have a great many of, again there is no splash or balm to pair with his wonderful soap and a situation that I had to rectify if not for anyone but myself. A wonderfully traditional barbershop scent in the Italian style, so many worlds removed from the sweet and saccharine affair that is some others on the market.
Woody, citrusy, herbaceous, mildly floral and very Italian.
Composition: Oakmoss, Patchouli, Rosemary, Bergamot, Lemon, Orange
Australian Private Reserve Summer Line up 2017
In January 2017 the first ‘commercial’ release line up was announced here. The names and descriptions of those scents are described as outlined below.
sachet de thé – Tea Bag
The essence of a very popular and enjoyable soap is captured using high grade essential oils in this refined, masculine herbaceous and citrus scent that is ideal for long hot summers drinking iced Earl Grey tea in Cheshire.
The scent uses a Musk and Patchouli base to offer a platform for clary sage, lavender and top notes of Calabrian Bergamot and Australian Lemon to shine.
Composition: Musk, Patchouli, Clary Sage, Lavender, Bergamot, Lemon
le courier – The Mail
A companion scent to the exceptionally formulated and wonderfully scented artisan soap ‘Gea’ that itself is based on the modern Fougère ‘le male’ by JPG.
The original is a complex perfume (as is the artisan soap) and this fragrance represents and compliments that complexity superbly taking no shortcuts as to composition. This was a lot of work, it is a very complex fragrance and saw 15-20 iterations prior to resting on something that was befitting, I am incredibly happy with this particular fragrance.
A base of Vanilla, Sandalwood, Tonka and Cedar. A heart of Cinnamon and Lavender. A top of Mint Cardamom and Bergamot with a few more too!
On opening the bottle the pure vanilla and mint are evident immediately in accord with the French Lavender. Bergamot and Neroli are balanced deeply within, the warmth of the Vanilla and Tonka wash over the senses but within the fragrance as a whole is an elusive, beautiful, mysterious accord that completes this most modern and complex of Fougères
Composition: Indian Mysore Sandalwood, Tonka, Madagascan Vanilla Absolute, Cinnamon, Lavender, Neroli, Mint, Cardamom, Bergamot.
bois de santal citron vert verviene– Sandalwood, Lime, Verbena
A limited edition scent that did not see release in the initial offering but one that proved to be very popular from the testers. A very bright & clean, tart refreshing summer citrus fragrance with sweet notes that has excellent silage and endurance.
Composition: Sandalwood, Black Pepper, Lime, Verbena.
pamplemousse injonction – Grapefruit Injunction
Tart and refreshing, this is a fragrance that commences an action without haste, petitioning for immediate, enduring relief from the heat and humidity of summer. Frankly quite a stupid name, but it’s a fantastic scent though if you like lasting, tart and balanced citrus.
Venezuelan Tonka provides the foundation for Black Pepper & White Grapefruit, the top notes are deep, sour grapefruit with the juxtaposition of Lilly of the Valley that serves as a wonderful contrast while offering depth to the proceedings.
This was formulated to pair with Mystic ‘Pompelo e Fiori’, however it works very well with Arlington or indeed any citrus soap. If you like sour Lime scents, you will love this.
Composition: Tonka, Black Pepper, Grapefruit, Lilly
L’endroit orange – The Orange Place
A bright, sharp and very well balanced citrus fragrance with the herbaceous presence to match its namesake ‘Seville’. This fragrance is a tribute to and a continuance of the tradition of Italian Barbershop fragrances with a nod of respect and homage to AdP.
Powdery Oakmoss and Patchouli set the tone for the woody, herbaceous heart of Rosemary and Lavender. The traditional barbershop of fresh, clean fragrances come from Calabrian Bergamot, Lemon and Bitter Orange in the famous Italian Barbershop accord.
This is well rounded, smooth, intelligent and sophisticated without the excessively sweet notes of contemporary barbershop fragrances. It pairs bloody well with Seville of course,but equally it’s one for those that like a classic fresh, clean, herbaceous and citrus Barbershop scent.
The Calabrian Bergamot Essential Oil is Bergaptene Free.
Composition: Oakmoss, Patchouli, Rosemary, Lavender, Bergamot, Lemon, Bitter Orange
Fête au citron – Lemon Party
Man’s long quest for the citrus is finally complete and he is without option, he must join the Lemon Party!
This is unashamedly a complex citrus fragrance with tart, sour and concurrently sweet accords. I am extremely pleased with the result and I intend on wearing it often as it works and pairs with so many summer soaps from Occam’s, to Shaver Heaven, B&M to Mike’s etc.
Built on a foundation of warm, sweet Amber and Vanilla Absolute with a heart of Black Pepper, Clary Sage and Lemon Grass.
Two groves, one crop at the top…Lime, Bergamot, Lemon, Neroli, Brazilian Bitter Orange, Sweet Orange and Mandarin (amongst others) form complex, bright and vibrant citrus accords that are carefully accented with the merest suggestion of sweetness as a suitable contrast to the lemon party that is in full swing.
The Calabrian Bergamot Essential Oil is Bergaptene Free.
Composition: Amber, Vanilla, Black Pepper, Clary Sage, Lemon Grass, Bergamot, Lime, Neroli, Lemon, Sweet Orange, Bitter Orange, Mandarin
WG – White Tea & Ginger
The second of the Mystic companions, again I spent some time with the scent of the original and made a few slight alterations to the Fragrance oil base adding one or two EO’s for longevity and roundness of the tea.
This accord uses Fragrance oil and Essential Oils
Composition: French Ginger, Venezuelan Tonka, Fragrance Oil.
SA – Suitably Attired Australian
Imagine a suitable attired gentlemen taking a leisurely walk surrounded by Green eucalyptus trees that remind him of tweed. He chances upon an Irish traveller who makes the Stirling suggestion that they take tea together.
This is another ‘interpretation’ of Creed’s Green Irish Tweed that uses the same Fragrance oil that Stirling and Mystic use in their GIT interpretations.
I have added EO’s for longevity and to liven up the heart and tops as the Fragrance Oil itself is fairly short lived and rather synthetic. It was fun to dabble, I quite like the scent but I am more interested in pure EO formulations and making something new and interesting. This is a one off.
This accord uses Essential Oils and Fragrance oil.
Composition: Ambergris, Indian Mysore Sandalwood, French Violet, Spanish Lemon, Rosemary, Australian Sweet Orange, Fragrance Oil.
Over that summer two more limited releases were mentioned –
Monsta Myrtle
Described here as ‘a summer, Lemon Myrtle dominant fragrance that rests and accords with other citrus. If you do not like mildly herbaceous, fresh dominant citrus scents then you will definitely not like this’.
Composition: Patchouli, Rosemary, Clary Sage, Lemon, Petit Grain, Lemon Myrtle & a few other things
Acqua di Sydney
Described here as ‘fragrance inspired by Saponifico Veresino 70th which draws it’s inspiration from the Marine classic Acqua Di Gio. This is a fragrance of fresh Marine notes, Lime, Lemon, Jasmine, Peach, Bergamot, Sweet and Sour Orange. It is bright, refreshing and very classic with a dry down that includes Amber, Patchouli, Oakmoss and White Musk’.
That might be all for this first instalment of the Australian Private Reserve collection. Come back next week for Part Two.