Ever-Ready Badger-lon
The Ever-Ready Badger-lon was one of the early uses of nylon, the new wonder fibre, in a shaving brush, combined with traditional badger hair. An interesting combination!
According to the American Oil & Gas Historical Society, nylon itself was discovered on 28 February 1935. The first commercial use of this new product was for toothbrushes.
Until now, all good toothbrushes were made with animal bristles,”
1938 Weco Products advertisement in Life magazine
With this background it is not hard to imagine that shaving brush manufacturers would also have shown interest …
My Badger-lon came to me from an online auction site in a used condition with soap scum and the fill of the name gone.
A bit of a clean, and filling the name with some black paint and it looks pretty good, although I did subsequently discover that gold fill was used originally.
The knot looks pretty good, although it does have a ‘glow’ or ‘halo’ from the light on the nylon fibres.
The Every-Ready Badger-lon, a 300 BN style, was not the only brush they made using nylon fibres. I also have a ‘pure’ nylon Every-Ready.
Possibly this was the premium range, hence the gold fill in the lettering, but that is only speculation.
The photo below though, from a sale listing for a different brush of the same type, shows just how much nylon was used.
More recently, it seems that ‘Badgerlon’ has been used in artists brushes.
Platypus LE Brush Homage
The Platypus LE Brush was my first real modern artisan made brush. You would have seen it in my SOTD photos and in the header on my brushes page.
This is my homage to this great brush and the artisan who created it.
The platypus (Ornithorhynchus anatinus) is a semi-aquatic, egg-laying mammal endemic to eastern Australia.
Wikipedia
I’ve tried to capture the brush in all its moods …
The ‘Platypus’ is a limited edition brush, only 25 were produced, plus one prototype, in 2017.
It was produced by Australian artisan Tony Forysth. Tony had a business turning pens and pencils as a wood turner. At that time Tony had no prior experiences with shaving brushes, but a member of Paste & Cut found him, his other work to date looked fantastic and he was very eager to explore this new, for him, field.
Turn the clock forward a couple of months and Tony not only become an enthusiastic wet shaver himself, but his brush turning and making skills became absolutely outstanding.
Specifications –
Handle Height: 65mm
Handle Diameter (largest): 39mm
Handle Diameter (smallest): 30mm
Knots offered were all Bob Quinn Elite Razor Manchurian in the following sizes:
- 26 mm FAN (at plug)
- 26 mm BULB (at plug)
- 24 mm FAN (at plug)
- 24 mm BULB (at plug)
More details of the knots in this thread.
The Platypus name was chosen as something uniquely Australian, and this brush sold out quickly to the members on Paste & Cut, Australia’s premier shaving forum. You can read some more details about it, and check out some ‘making of’ pictures in this thread.
It really is a great brush in the handle, nicely balanced and with a great feel. The knot is superb and it whips up a fantastic lather.
This ended up not being my only TF Custom Brushes brush it was so good. That might be a story for another post though.
Certainly if you can get your hands on one of these very limited number of brushes I’d say go for it!
While Tony has sadly, for us, retired, his legacy lives on not only in his brushes, but in the videos he has produced detailing the process of brush creation – as well as a few wood turning tricks!
Subscribe to my channelSome of the videos from Tony Foysth’s Youtube Channel.
Of Badger Grades and Things ... (Part Two)
Badgers, and the badger brushes produced from their hair, have a strong link to traditional shaving, but describing grades of hair remains controversial.
We have posted previously, see here, on badger hair grades. In looking further into this topic we found this media release from 28 January 2014. It refers to comments on the topic, amongst other things, by the current Managing Director of Simpson Shaving Brushes, Mark Watterson.
Unfortunately Kaliandee, a Canadian ‘Purveyor of fine shaving and grooming tools, and exquisite leather items‘, who undertook the original interview is no longer in business. The link to the full interview in that release is now a dead link.
This is the second part of this interview we have tracked down where Mark talks about the ethics of badger hair, and his recommendation for a novice shaver.
You can read the first part here.
Interview with Mark Watterson of Simpson's and Vulfix
Jan 2014
5. As far as I’m aware, all brush manufacturers using badger hair today source their hair from China. Does sourcing such an important component from overseas present any challenges in ensuring the reliability, quality and ethical credentials of your supply?
Badger hair is a natural product & can only legally be procured from China despite claims from other manufacturers. Like human hair, no two follicles will ever be the same. There will always be variety in batches. Achieving quality & consistent supply is an ever evolving challenge as more & more producers try & establish a share of the market. Progress Shaving use specialist hair brokers to ensure that our hair is the finest offered to the marketplace.
In response to the growing concern of the ecologically aware retailer and indeed most important of all the conservation orientated person in the street, it is necessary to clarify one or two points concerning the use of Badger Hair in Shaving Brushes. All Badger Hair is imported from China. At this point it is important to note that British, American and Canadian Badger are of no interest to brush manufacturers and cannot be connected with today’s limited trade. China being the main exporter of Badger hair, do so with very strict control on the amount exported each year, clearly displaying their awareness of environmental conservation. The Badger population is carefully monitored avoiding any decreases in their numbers. (It should be remembered that the Badger is a source of meat to the Chinese people and is available in the markets). Chinese Badgers are collected from the wild and are not in contravention of the Washington Treaty of Endangered Species.
This has been an industry for the people of China for hundreds of years and it should also be remembered that an increase in the Badger population would quickly be regarded as vermin and a pest to agriculture. The high prices paid for Badger Hair, its removal being a costly operation, means that any significant growth predicted in its demand has little foundation. Such an expensive product will never be part of the fashion boom. Britain, Europe and America all operate very strict import controls ensuring that any Badger hair brought into these countries is done so with all legislative agreements being strictly adhered to.
The ecologists in both the exporting and importing communities of Badger Hair have created a system preserving the Badger, an important source of livelihood for hundreds of years in the Far East and ensuring that a small market does exist, creating valuable work in an industry which dates back to the time when wet shaving was first recorded.
6. You recently tweeted that the first run of Simpson synthetics brushes are in the works, which many of us are eagerly awaiting. Have you found that the development and manufacture of a synthetic brush has presented any particular or unexpected challenges?
Synthetic materials used in the production of shaving brushes have been around for a long time but recently technological advances have led our company to take a real interest. Imitation badger in filament form opens up an entirely new market. We have been working with a specialist manufacturer for the last eighteen months to produce what we believe will be the most revolutionary synthetic fibre available in production run shaving brushes. Vulfix & Simpson brushes will be offered using this material and we anticipate huge demand around the globe.
7. You have previously stated that part of the reason for Vulfix’s purchase of the Simpsons brand in 2008 was because the former owner had trouble finding suitable replacements for his craftspeople as they retired. As an employer, have you had any difficulties finding new employees willing to learn the more traditional crafts involved in brush making?
Staff & particularly key operational employee training are a vital & an ongoing part of any business. We try & ensure that our workforce is skilled in a variety of facets to cover every area in the manufacture of a truly hand-made traditional product. This is what makes a Simpson brush truly unique. Skilled operatives are involved throughout the entire production process. Our staff are well rewarded & some of our work force have been with the company for over thirty years. A happy workforce makes an excellent shaving brush!
8. Finally; are there any specific models you would recommend as ideal for a complete novice to shaving with a brush?
For an entry level budget Vulfix shaving brush I’d recommend the 2199 Pure Badger. It comes with a traditionally built lathe turned handle and the knot offers a nice combination of scrub & flex.
When it comes to a Simpson brush you can look no further than the legendary Duke 3 in Best Badger. This brush outsells any other model in its class & just about does everything you want a brush to do. Firm, soft, beautiful are words often used to describe this workhorse of the Simpson stable.
If you want something iconic, reach for the top – the Simpson Chubby 2 in Manchurian Badger. It’s at the top end of the end of the price structure but for good reason. This shaving brush handle is packed solid with the finest hair available on the planet. Yes, the fabled Manchurian Badger from the High Mountainous region of China.
Finally, we hope our excellent wholesale partnership with Kaliandee continues to grow as the worldwide wet shaving renaissance gathers pace.
Kind regards,
Mark Watterson
Managing Director
Progress Shaving Brush (Vulfix) Limited
[Original Source: http://www.kaliandee.com/Simpsons_Brushes_Interview.html]
Of Badger Grades and Things ... (Part One)
Badgers, and the badger brushes produced from their hair, have a strong link to traditional shaving, but describing grades of hair remains controversial.
We have posted previously, see here, on badger hair grades. In looking further into this topic we found this media release from 28 January 2014. It refers to comments on the topic, amongst other things, by the current Managing Director of Simpson Shaving Brushes, Mark Watterson.
Unfortunately Kaliandee, a Canadian ‘Purveyor of fine shaving and grooming tools, and exquisite leather items‘, who undertook the original interview is no longer in business. The link to the full interview in that release is now a dead link.
Of course, that was not an acceptable outcome.
With some internet sleuthing we have tracked down the full interview. The first part of this, where he talks about the models of brushes and grades of hair, is reproduced below. The second part will be published next week.
Interview with Mark Watterson of Simpson's and Vulfix
Jan 2014
[Original Source: http://www.kaliandee.com/Simpsons_Brushes_Interview.html]
1. Are there any major differences between the production process for Simpson’s brushes and the high-end Vulfix models?
Firstly, thank you so much for giving me the opportunity to answer some truly excellent questions, it’s a genuine pleasure.
Both our Simpson & Vulfix shaving brushes are produced using time-served traditional methods. Every shaving brush knot is hand-tied, this process entirely unique to our company in Great Britain.
The discernible differences between the Simpson and Vulfix brands are the density of the knots, the finish of each handle & of course the names of the brushes & the history attached to them. Simpson shaving brushes are widely regarded as the finest shaving tools in the world, their incredibly dense knots produce decadent lathers for an exhilarating shaving experience.
Each Simpson shaving brush handle is laser engraved denoting the model and grade of hair used. They also house the world famous Simpson Black & Gold sticker. Lastly, each Simpson model is named based on a history which dates back to 1919. For example the Wee Scot bears the signature of Alexander Simpson, the founder of the company all those years ago. Vulfix brushes tend to be mid-high end luxury items although the primary business associated with the brand is OEM or White labelling work.
2. In a previous interview, you mentioned that a Simpsons brush takes about a week to produce. Approximately how much of that time is actual, “hands-on” work?
Yes, a single Simpson shaving brush takes approximately one week to produce. It is an incredibly labour intensive process. Out of the seven day production time, probably three of four of the days are spent actually constructing and finishing the brush.
… a single Simpson shaving brush takes approximately one week to produce
Mark Watterson, MD, Simpson Shaving Brushes
The weighing of the hair, bundling, tying & setting of each knot takes a couple of days followed by the actual glue process, finishing & packing of each individual brush. Brush handles spend approximately three days being lathe turned, vibrated in limestone chippings and polished in wood chip timber drum barrels.
3. Are there certain Vulfix or Simpsons models that take significantly more time or skill than others to produce?
It takes a craftsman or craftswoman many years to perfect the art of good bundling or knot formation. We are blessed with the best in the business. Some knots really do provide the most amazing test of their dexterity & concentration – most notably the tiny Wee Scot & the legendary monstrous Chubby 3.
4. Hair grades can be confusing for beginners; can you clarify how the Vulfix badger grades relate to Simpsons grades? And the big question: is the Simpsons Super grade technically silvertip hair?
Badger hair grading is a minefield & notoriously confusing. There is no internationally accepted or recognised hair standardisation. However, as the world’s leading & oldest shaving brush manufacturer we believe our descriptions of badger hair set the benchmark.
We classify our badger hair offerings as follows:
1) Pure Badger hair is of the highest quality, carefully graded for hand filled brushes. It is regarded as an affordable entry level material by leading shaving brush manufacturers. The hair is dark and silver in appearance, immediately identifying the brush as being of an above average standard, and confirming the purity of the hair mixture. This grade of hair is firmer to the touch, scratchy on the skin and is favoured by traditionalists looking to exfoliate the skin prior to shaving.
2) Best Badger (Simpson) is a very high quality grade of hair, used only in our hand filled brushes. This hair is chosen by the more discerning wet shaver for its softness on the skin and water retention qualities. A unique dark band capped by light, almost white tips makes this hair very recognizable in its appearance. All of Simpson’s Best Badger brushes are hand-made and the tapered head shape is achieved without the use of trimming machinery, a time saving method employed by other manufacturers. As a result the softest and smoothest of shaves from tips in their natural state is guaranteed. A Best Badger brush should give its user many years of service.
3) Super Badger (Vulfix) is premium quality hair. It originates from around the neck of the animal & is extremely soft. Visually the material can be two or three band in appearance, a slightly Silver Brown lower band giving rise to a darker colour before the tip of the brush tapers to a Silver White finish.
4) True Silvertip (Simpson Super) is extremely limited in its availability & gives the badger hair special status amongst the wet shaving fraternity. Indeed some would deem it the holy grail of shaving. The hair is untreated and comes in its natural state, shaped by the hand and left un-trimmed to give an exceptionally soft feel.
What is the best razor for a beginner?
Choosing the best razor for a beginner is a tall order – men’s hair types, thus beards, and skin types are very different. A razor that works for one person will not necessarily work for another,
The blades being used can also have an impact on the experience a lot, which is another factor that makes it difficult to chose a ‘best beginner’ razor’. I’m a strong believer that it is a razor-blade combination that is critically important.
Of course none of this is any help to somebody trying to pick a beginner razor, so lets just give it a go.
The best beginner razor needs to be foolproof, reliable, and likely to meet the needs of the largest number of users.
On that criteria I cannot, unfortunately, recommend any vintage razor as your first razor – as much as it pains me to admit it.
Some vintage razors have lived a hard life, and been damaged in the process. If you have one, don’t throw it out! Keep it and come back to use it later.
So then, what is the razor that best meets those criteria …
It really is hard to go past the Rockwell razors as the best beginner razor.
It comes in two models, the cheaper 6C chrome version, and the ‘last a lifetime’ 6S stainless steel version.
They are pretty foolproof, super reliable, available in lots of places around the globe and …
… they come with interchangeable base plates giving 6 different options for how ‘aggressive’ you want your razor to be. There should be an option to meet the needs of all new wet shavers – regardless of your beard type.
Of course there are other modern adjustable razors, including the Rockwell Model T. Some have variable quality control, others though are really well made – but how would you know?
As a beginner, the simple approach of the Rockwells with the interchangeable heads has an obvious quality about them, and good quality control.
Well those are my thoughts and suggestions anyway, now over to you!
One of the earliest Gillette converts?
One of the earliest Gillette converts? Is that who we have identified?
You may remember a post I made a while back in relation to a postal card sent from Gillette as part of their replacement blade policy. In it I noted the comment by the insurance agent recipient about his firm being the only one to insurance motor vehicles in the area in 1897.
I subsequently got in touch with his great grandson who still owns that business and he indicated –
“The first auto insurance policy in the world was issued by The Travelers Insurance Company in 1897. In 1897, our agency was the only agency representing Travelers in the area so, it is true, we insured every car in Geneva that had insurance in 1897”.
Email from Tom Burrall, 25 July 2022
Which got me thinking a little more about Mr Charles S Burrall.
OK, so this is NOT going to be a deep dive into the history of Charles Stacey Burrall, BUT …
… I did the maths on him being sent a postal card in August 1905 indicating that 12 used blades had been received by Gillette from him. On a conservative estimate of one blade a week that would mean he had been using a Gillette razor for at least three months by then.
In other words, Charles Stacey Burrall had purchased a Gillette safety razor before June 1905.
So what? So that is a BIG DEAL!
The Gillette Double Ring was the first safety razor from Gillette. The razor was manufactured from 1903 – 1906. These sets are still very difficult to come by.
According to enquiries made with the Proctor & Gamble archivist the estimated sales were:
- 1903: 424
- 1904: The first 55,000 were not numbered. #1-25424 were marked “Pat Apl’d For, #25,425-45,424 were marked “Pat Nov 5.1904”
- 1905: #45,425-370,424
- 1906: #370,425-770,424 (Single Ring was introduced mid-year)
On those numbers it is fair to assume that Mr Burrall owned one to the first couple of hundred thousand Gillette razors!
It would have also been a considerable investment at the time. There were three different double ring models offered in 1905.
- Triple-Silver Plated model that came with 12 blades, this razor is the most common. Price: $US5.00 – equivalent to $168.34 in 2022.
- Heavy Gold-Plated model that came with 12 blades. Price $US10.00 USD – equivalent to $336.68 in 2022.
- Heavy Gold-Plated model that came with 12 blades, offered the customer’s name printed on the case, and initials or monogram on the handle. Price $US12.00 – equivalent to $404.01 in 2022.
Of course this is all based on an estimate of using one blade a week, so the twelve blades returned would represent only three months use, but …
Gillette’s advertising of that era suggested that each blade would last more than a week, they claim that every blade will give ‘from ten to thirty velvet shaves’. This would mean that the 12 included blades would give between 120 and 360 shaves.
In fact, many of there advertisements claimed 400 shaves without stropping or honing.
Obviously at the low end of Gillette’s advertising claims a purchase prior to June 1905 remains a valid estimate – but clearly a conservative one, it would have been more likely to have been May 1905.
Taken the upper end of the estimates, 360 – 400 shaves, and assuming that Mr Burrall shaved daily, that would mean he purchased his Gillette Safety Razor either July or August in 1904.
Let’s look at those production numbers again, the patent was issued on 15 November 1904, so the only possible razors purchased prior to that would have been –
- 1903: 424
- 1904: The first 55,000 which were not numbered
- 1904: Serial numbers 1-25424 which were marked “Pat Apl’d For”
So it may well be possible that Charles Stacey Burrall purchased one of the first 80,000 Gillette razors every produced.
According to Russell Adams (Adams, Russell B – King C. Gillette, the man and his wonderful shaving device. 1978. ISBN 0-316-00937-7) by the end of 1909 Gillette had sold nearly 2 million razors.
Of course, this is all rather speculative and impossible to prove without the actual razor he brought.
However I’d like to think that a man who would have been at the cutting edge to have ‘insured every car in Geneva that had insurance in 1897′ would have been as innovative in other areas of his life – including his choice of razor.
2022 Paste & Cut Charity Auction
Each year since 2018 a charity auction is held at Paste & Cut, the premier Australian wet-shaving group.
How successful have these auction been?
- 2018 auction – $4,278
- 2019 auction – $4,347
- 2020 auction – $8,500
- 2021 auction – $6,952
Total raised to date: $24,772
The 2022 Auction is currently under way, from 2 – 8 October.
Why not join Paste & Cut, check out the auction, including the terms here, and …
BID
BID
BID
There are some great lots on offer, and it is all for a great cause!
Australian Private Reserve (APR) - Part Five
Australian Private Reserve (APR) came and went over the course of about 3 years or so. In that time it got a lot of international attention for an Australian shaving artisan.
See Part One for the ‘origin story’ and details of the very early scents.
See Part Two for the early phase of commercial operation and the scents involved.
Then Part Three covers the remainder of 2017.
Following on, Part Four covers the major released in 2018.
This post wraps this series up and focuses on the scents in the limited edition (LE) and collaboration releases from APR, mainly in late 2018 through to mid 2020.
TEXAUS LE Collaboration
Released in September 2018
Collaboration with Noble Otter.
Top Notes: Bergamot, Australian Sweet Orange & Black Currant
Heart Notes: Petitgrain, Cedarwood, Lavender, Plumeria & Ivy
Base Notes: Sandalwood, Oakmoss, Patchouli, White Musk, Animal Musk & Vanilla
February 2019 LEs
In February 2019 Australian Private Reserve (APR) released two additional LEs as described here.
Fougère Trois (Soap/Aftershave Splash/EdP)
This was a third year anniversary LE.
Top Notes Include: Lavender, Bergamot, Clary sage, Petitgrain
Heart Notes Include : Geranium, Heliotrope, Rose, Orchid, Carnation
Base notes Include: Oakmoss, Tonka, Musk, Vanilla, Hay
In addition, APR released:
Torchwood (Soap/Aftershave Splash/EdP)
Top Notes Include: Cedar Atlas, Dried Apricot & Black Plum
Heart Notes Include: Texas Cedarwood, Rosewood, Mahogany, Tobacco, Teak & Leather
Base Notes Include: Sandalwood, Civet, Hyrax, Patchouli & Animal Musk
Without a lot of fanfare, May 2019 saw the release of another LE –
Haru
We are proud to present ‘Haru’ our Exclusive for the Spanish Shavers Facebook Group!
Top: Bergamot, Neroli, Lemon & Mandarin
Heart: Petitgrain, Rhubarb, Lavender, Geranium, Red Thyme, Texas Cedarwood & Dama de Noche
Base: Yerba Mate, Patchouli, White Musk & Sandalwood
September 2019 Releases
This was a busy month for releases!
Carnivale
Collaboration with Storybook Soapworks
Shaving Soap by Storybook Soapworks and Aftershave Splash and EdT by AP Reserve.
Carnivale is an autumnal fragrance of warm spice, rich woods, brandy , plum, jazz cabbage, apricot, Amalfi Lemon and a great deal more.
Jungle Warrior
Another collaboration with Noble Otter
Shaving Soap, Aftershave Splash and EdT by Noble Otter & Perfume design by AP Reserve.
Jungle Warrior is a beautiful fougère style fragrance. It brings to life a beautiful spicy green scent. Perfect for pretty much any occasion. This is a limited edition product.
Notes: Bergamot, Blueberry, Orange Blossom and Green Apple Réunion Geranium Bourbon, Lavender, Blackberry, Clover and Rosewood Oakmoss, Patchouli, Tonka Bean, Vetiver, Guaiac Wood and Musk
‘Fresca Intensa’
Another collaboration with Storybook Soapworks
From top to bottom Fresca Intensa will be rocking the following notes : Neroli (Italy), Lemon, Bergamot, Cedrat Peel, Lemon Verbena, Lime, Sweet Orange, Petitgrain, Rhubarb, Lime Leaves, Cedrat Heart, Lavender, Rosemary, Rose, Sandalwood, Patchouli, Amber, White Musk, Ambergris & Vetiver.
In November 2019 the last ‘full set’ offering was released under the APR branding that was not a collaboration –
It was released as a shaving soap, aftershave and EdT with a Extrait subsequently available.
Try That Soap has the notes including –
- Civet
- Spices
- Tuberose
- Cedar
- Patchouli
- Guaiac Wood
- Musk
- Leather
- Whiskey
- Labdanum
- Sandalwood
- Coffee
- Castoreum
Later in November 2019 there was another LE collaboration released, this time with Highland Springs Soap Co.
Eclipse
Eclipse was born from a desire to create a dark musky fragrance, although at the time, we had no idea it would bear that moniker. We have collaborated with Australian private reserve as they are well-known in creating complex scents; a perfect fit.
The long list of notes come together beautifully to create a truly one of a kind experience. Russian leather and dark musk are predominant initially, followed by blond tobacco dried fig and bourbon then rounding out with floral notes of Carnation, Geranium and Lavender.
The dry down on this scent emphasizes it’s complexity, like the moon slowly passing in front of the sun, it darkens over time, leaving you in the shadows of Eclipse.
[Description from HSSC website]
Once again under the Reserve Privée nomenclature, in May 2020 –
Reserve Privée Les Oudhs
100ml Eau de Parfum in a tall, round glass pillar sourced for this edition. The flacon seats with a simple transparent label, there is a deliberate exclusion of superfluous distraction in the Reserve Privée style. The composition does not need to shout, there will be no billboard.
~~
The Shaving Soap receptacles are handmade, polished flint coloured wood with a snug fitting lid, a matching 50ml Aftershave is included. Both, only available with the purchase of the Eau de Parfum.
~~
The 30ml & 60ml extrait flacons further reflect the exclusion of superfluity. The complete edition is effortlessly appointed, Immediately classic and a set for collectors.
Later that month there was a ‘Private release for /r/wetshaving #wetshaving IRC Reddit deplorables’.
Marbles
This was released, in collaboration with Noble Otter, as an extrait, aftershave and soap. It was a it was a special edition for the IRC sub #wetshaving
A collaboration with Southern Witchcrafts, in June 2020 –
Gravefruit
A pact of light and dark, essentially entwined in a special Summer Release of both notes and multiple accords. Of citrus, Yuzu, Passionfruit, Grapefruit, Pear & Green Mango anchored below by fractions of Vetiver, Frankincense, Elemi, Sandalwood and damp earthy accords reflecting the subterranean down under…
This release is 100% Vegan Friendly. Absolutely no animal products were used in the Perfume composition or design.
Perfume design and compounding by AP Reserve.
This is a US release with Shaving Soap, Aftershave Splash and Eau de Parfum produced by @southernwitchcrafts & @dogwoodhandcrafts
[Note, the Gravefruit II released by Southern Witchcrafts has scents by Shawn Maher of Chattilon Lux]
A collaboration with House of Mammoth, in June 2020, this built off the release of the Santal Noir scent as an EdP under the theme –
Santal Noir
Santal Noir is a sophisticated design, resting on Sandalwoods with a heart of Agarwood, Dark Rose, Jasmine, Jonquil, Cassis, Lemon, and more.
That is all for this fifth, and final, instalment of the Australian Private Reserve collection. Coming in late? You can start from the first post in this series and see where it all began.
If there are any errors or omissions or you have some information to add, please contact me.
Australian Private Reserve (APR) - Part Four
Australian Private Reserve (APR) came and went over the course of about 3 years or so. In that time it got a lot of international attention for an Australian shaving artisan.
See Part One for the ‘origin story’ and details of the very early scents.
See Part Two for the early phase of commercial operation and the scents involved.
Then Part Three covers the remainder of 2017.
This post follows on and aims to focus on the scents in the next stage of the APR project through 2018.
Velours Noir LE
Released in May 2018
Dark Molecules and the changing of the seasons. Black Velvet –Velours Noir the new AP Reserve fragrance that is masculine, intelligent and Limited Edition.
Smoky dark Haitian Vetiver, timeless Sandalwood and clean textured Mahogany with a suggestion of Agar Wood forms the base of our latest creation exploring the contrasts of the changing seasons with the finest woods in accord with beautiful clean citrus.
A heart of warm Cedarwood, exotic Ginger and cooling indulgent French Lavender envelopes the heart of the fragrance.
For the top opening notes we insisted on something to focus the effortless contrast of our design, something to challenge and create an accord with the deep base notes.
We have constructed a beautiful citrus accord of White Grapefruit, Orange, Lime and Bergamot with a whisper of Japanese Yuzu to accentuate the sour, sweet enduring citrus bouquet that travels with the fragrance.
Top Notes: White Grapefruit, Orange, Lime, Bergamot, Yuzu
Heart Notes: Cedarwood, Ginger, Lavender
Base Notes: Haitian Vetiver, Sandalwood, Mahogany, Agarwood
Winter 2018 Line up
The Australian Private Reserve (APR) Winter 2018 line up was described here.
Fenchurch
Anything that happens, happens.
Fenchurch is a skilfully textured, masculine composition built on an indulgent base that is encompassing, refined and luxurious.
A note of important documents, paper and velum. Warm balsams meet sweet vanilla, while potent animal musk accents fragrant patchouli and opulent tuberose to establish a solid foundation. We don’t do compromise.
Beautiful leathers, both old and new sit atop the base notes defining layers of texture and experience, sweet tobacco flower is in accord with dark tobacco leaf. Fenchurch explores the many varieties of fine things.
Whiskey completes the proceedings with the narcotic notes of Heliotropin and nuances of sweet plum.
Top Notes Include: Whiskey, Heliotrope & Dark Plum
Heart Notes Include: Leathers, Suede, Tobacco Flower & Dark Tobacco Leaf
Base Notes Include: Papyrus, Benzoin, Labdanum, Vanilla, Animal Musk, Patchouli & Tuberose
Ozymandias
We are proud to release Ozymandias, a tour de force of vibrant dark woods teaming with creamy, refined Mysore Sandalwood finished impeccably with white musk and dark resinous vanilla.
Heart notes of generous Rosewood, beautiful floral Orris and the warmth of Cedar resting on the sweetness of Honey. The sum is greater than the whole accord.
The warming camaraderie of white rums suitably aged and rested, accented by intangible suggestions of Red Cherry and Blueberry as the fragrance opens.
To experience Ozymandias is to experience a deep fragrance of multiple accords, a narrative of agelessness, memory and time where the lone and level sands stretch far away
Top Notes Include: White Rum, Red Cherry & Blueberry
Heart Notes Include: Rosewood, Orris, Cedarwood & Honey
Base Notes Include: Oudh, Mysore Sandalwood, White Musks, Vanilla & Ambergris
During this winter another limited edition set was released, only with an EDT –
Skye Fall
No waxing lyrical this time, this is what SkyeFall ‘smells like’
SkyeFall smells like a stupidly rich, deep, creamy masculine gentleman’s fragrance that combines (in accord) Indian Mysore Sandalwood, Ambergris, Tobacco & Single Malt Whiskey ably assisted by Yerba Mate abs, a tiny hint of leather and civet. It is full bodied, very slightly herbaceous with beautiful spiced black tea, a little peat, some caramel balsams and a very special pepper top note.
Top Notes Include: Pepper…
Heart Notes Include: Carnation, Rosewood, Thyme & Cardamom
Base Notes Include: Sandalwood, Ambergris, Amyris, Tobacco Flower, Whiskey, Yerba Mate, Leather & Civet
Spring 2018 Line up
The Australian Private Reserve (APR) Spring 2018 line up was described here.
‘Lavioletta’ – Soap/Splash & EDP
A celebration with a festival of lavenders, Egyptian and French Violet, Iris, Pink Pepper, Réunion Geranium, Tonka Bean, Patchouli, Oakmoss & Sandalwood set atop a tenacious and beautiful musk accord.
A classic fragrance opening of French Lemon Verbena & Calabrian Bergamot provide elegance before receding to the finest Lavenders, resting on the beauty of the base.
Top Notes Include: Lemon Verbena (France), Bergamot
Heart Notes Include: French, Spanish & Australian Lavenders, Réunion Geranium, French Violet, Heliotrope, Accacia & Pink Pepper
Base Notes Include: Sandalwood Mysore, Egyptian Violet, Iris, Oakmoss, Tonka & White Musk.
‘Florian’ LE – Soap/Splash & EDT
A bright, modern aromatic Fougère of fresh gentle citrus, florals, musk and woods with a final grand gesture from Elemi to open the fragrance.
Enduring, discretely floral and very intricate in design the narrative of the fragrance is revealed over hours after a diffuse opening of aldehydic florals, superb citrus in a vertical accord of crisp Elemi and refined citrus.
Top Notes Include: Italian Neroli, Bergamot & Sweet Lemon
Heart Notes Include: Petitgrain, Rosewood, Bigaradier, Cyclamen & Herbs
Base Notes Include: Elemi, Ambergris, Amyris, Vanilla, Spanish Moss & Musk
In September 2018 the first offering was released under the ‘réserve privée’ nomenclature –
édition Les Santals – réserve privée
April of 2017 saw the first offering of a composition built around a specific batch of Mysore Sandalwood (Santalum album) of a superb quality that was eponymously named
‘The Santal’.
All the perfumes were acquired minutes after I made my post which was an addendum to a Winter release. I knew then that there were others who deeply appreciate such rare things, and this has been repeatedly confirmed as I still receive emails from all over the globe in relation to the release from others who share my love of pure indulgence in relation to their fragrances.
This sophomore edition sees a downright raucous and disgraceful celebration of Sandalwood, however I thought it was time to push out the boat somewhat after having evaluated a number of the most refined and beautiful Sandalwoods in the world.
Obtained from only the heartwood, I present for your consideration the curated Sandalwoods that will form the majestic vertical accord for les santals
Indian Sandalwood santalum album
Australian Sandalwood santalum spicatum
New Caledonian Sandalwood santalum austrocaledonicum
These oils have been incorporated into a superbly rounded masculine symphony, with the sole intention of affording them a stage so they reveal their sublime complexity, difference and inimitable beauty.
édition Les Santals – réserve privée
The aftershave for this release is an exclusive edition of the AP Reserve base that contains imported Sandalwood hydrosol in addition to the regular skin foods present in the AP Reserve Aftershave.
Summer 2018 Line up
The Australian Private Reserve (APR) Summer 2018 line up was described here.
Passione
A bright, radiant Fougère of high projection – this composition is tradition turned on its head with a cavalier and very bold complexity.
Passione opens in dramatic style with an accord of tart Passion fruit, Apricot, Peach and Raspberry bursting forward in a mélange of citrus and tart fruit notes.
We follow through on the opening presence with deeper layers of complexity as we explore the depth of Passion fruit flesh, the intricacy of Lime leaves married to the sour citrus floral tones of Green Apple.
A traditional base anchors the composition ensuring longevity and a solid base, Elemi providing the necessary vertical accord for the explosive opening with the sweetness of Vanilla and Musk ensuring the balance of sharp citrus and sweet fruit.
Top Notes Include: Passion fruit, Apricot, Peach & Raspberry
Heart Notes Include: Passion fruit Flesh, Lime Leaves, Green Apple, Geranium & Lavender
Base Notes Include: Oakmoss, Tonka, Sandalwood, Elemi, Vanilla & Musk
Bombora
AP Reserve is proud to announce our first Citrus Aquatic fragrance for the new season, Bombora is a powerful, fresh and sharp citrus Aquatic encompassing cold, clean oceans and fresh sea air with a suggestion of salt water and ozonic aquatica.
The fragrance opens with the crispness of French Cedrat and the sharp citrus of Tangerine dressed with Meyer Lemon, Bergamot and tart citrus Lime for a refreshing and very modern aquatic experience.
The dry down sees muted narcotic florals, hinting at a darkness beneath the waves through to the dry down of Ambergris, fresh sea-weed and algae and hints of Woods and clean white musk.
Top Notes Include: Tangerine, Cedrat, Lemon, Bergamot, Lime & Aquatic Notes
Heart Notes Include: Sea Breeze, Narcissus, Freesia, Aldehydes, Watermelon & Ozone
Base Notes Include: Ambergris (NZ), Seaweed, Algae, Driftwood, Amber & White Musk
AP Reserve P&C Festivus SE
Limited edition special gift to Paste & Cut members.
Opening Notes include: Juniper, Lime, Grapefruit, Orange & Bergamot
Heart Notes Include: Cardamom, Nutmeg, Carnation, Red Pepper, Aldehydes & Cucumber
Base Notes Include: Cashmere, Patchouli, Mahogany, Coriander, Castoreum & Amber
In December 2018 a limited release EDP was announced –
Fresca Intensa EDP
An explosive mod of our incredibly popular ‘Fresca’ taking the fragrance to exciting and intense new levels for the summer months.
APR demanded a refreshingly new design for Fresca, a fragrance that is crisp and invigorating, with a masculine sophistication and body to embrace the classic Italian freshness of pure and sweet spring citrus, drenched in sunshine.
Beautiful and elegant musk’s accord with sandalwood, rosewood, jasmine and the finest citrus oils to create a design synergy of uplifting citrus that endures with classical style.
Fresca, it’s Italian for fresh!
Top Notes Include: Italian Neroli, Italian Lemon, Cedrat, Bergamot, Lime & Sweet Orange
Heart Notes Include: Petitgrain, Rosewood, Rosemary & Jasmine
Base Notes Include: Musk, Mysore Sandalwood & Patchouli
That might be all for this fourth instalment of the Australian Private Reserve collection. Come back next week for Part Five.
The Simpson Jubilee Shaving Brush
The Simpson Jubilee was a limited edition brush created to commemorate the Diamond Jubilee (60th anniversary) of Queen Elizabeth II’s reign.
With Her Majesty’s passing last week it seemed fitting to use this brush for my weekend shaves, a small way of showing respect. Of course this year marks her Platinum Jubilee (70 years) although Simpson Shaving Brushes didn’t seek to mark that milestone.
The handle was crafted from faux Briarwood with a diameter of around 35mm and height around 45mm.
Each brush was engraved and ‘gold’ filled, with mine reading:
‘QE II
1952 – 2012
19/150.‘
Engraving on handle
Of course, each was numbered differently!
The knot in the Simpson Jubilee was Simpson’s Manchurian badger, a 23 mm knot with around 50 mm loft.
Overall height with handle is around 92mm – so it is not a big brush by contemporary standards
One of the cool features though is a 2012 Isle of Man coin in the base of the handle …
The other side of the 2012 Isle of Man coin in the base of the handle you obviously cannot see.
The reverse side shows Tynwald Hill and St Johns Chapel.
In recognising the historical milestone of the Diamond Jubilee, we also need to acknowledge the long history of A E Simpson Shaving Brushes, as discussed earlier here.
In use the Jubilee is an outstanding brush. It is a joy to use, a size I like, and whips up a consistent lather.
In the future though, whenever I use it I will also always be reminded of Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II. A woman of amazing grace and service.
