Australian Private Reserve (APR) - Part Five

Australian Private Reserve (APR) came and went over the course of about 3 years or so.  In that time it got a lot of international attention for an Australian shaving artisan.

See Part One for the ‘origin story’ and details of the very early scents.

See Part Two for the early phase of commercial operation and the scents involved.

Then Part Three covers the remainder of 2017.

Following on, Part Four covers the major released in 2018.

This post wraps this series up and focuses on the scents in the limited edition (LE) and collaboration releases from APR, mainly in late 2018 through to mid 2020.


Noble Otter / APR TEXAUS

TEXAUS LE Collaboration

Released in September 2018

Collaboration with Noble Otter.

Top Notes: Bergamot, Australian Sweet Orange & Black Currant
Heart Notes: Petitgrain, Cedarwood, Lavender, Plumeria & Ivy
Base Notes: Sandalwood, Oakmoss, Patchouli, White Musk, Animal Musk & Vanilla


February 2019 LEs

In February 2019 Australian Private Reserve (APR) released two additional LEs as described here.

Fougère Trois (Soap/Aftershave Splash/EdP)

This was a third year anniversary LE.

Top Notes Include: Lavender, Bergamot, Clary sage, Petitgrain
Heart Notes Include : Geranium, Heliotrope, Rose, Orchid, Carnation
Base notes Include: Oakmoss, Tonka, Musk, Vanilla, Hay

In addition, APR released:

Torchwood (Soap/Aftershave Splash/EdP)

Top Notes Include: Cedar Atlas, Dried Apricot & Black Plum
Heart Notes Include: Texas Cedarwood, Rosewood, Mahogany, Tobacco, Teak & Leather
Base Notes Include: Sandalwood, Civet, Hyrax, Patchouli & Animal Musk​


APR Haru

Without a lot of fanfare, May 2019 saw the release of another LE –

Haru

We are proud to present ‘Haru’ our Exclusive for the Spanish Shavers Facebook Group!

Top: Bergamot, Neroli, Lemon & Mandarin

Heart: Petitgrain, Rhubarb, Lavender, Geranium, Red Thyme, Texas Cedarwood & Dama de Noche

Base: Yerba Mate, Patchouli, White Musk & Sandalwood


September 2019 Releases

This was a busy month for releases!

Carnivale

Collaboration with Storybook Soapworks

Shaving Soap by Storybook Soapworks and Aftershave Splash and EdT by AP Reserve.

Carnivale is an autumnal fragrance of warm spice, rich woods, brandy , plum, jazz cabbage, apricot, Amalfi Lemon and a great deal more.

Jungle Warrior

Another collaboration with Noble Otter

Shaving Soap, Aftershave Splash and EdT by Noble Otter & Perfume design by AP Reserve.

Jungle Warrior is a beautiful fougère style fragrance. It brings to life a beautiful spicy green scent. Perfect for pretty much any occasion. This is a limited edition product.

Notes: Bergamot, Blueberry, Orange Blossom and Green Apple Réunion Geranium Bourbon, Lavender, Blackberry, Clover and Rosewood Oakmoss, Patchouli, Tonka Bean, Vetiver, Guaiac Wood and Musk

‘Fresca Intensa’

Another collaboration with Storybook Soapworks

From top to bottom Fresca Intensa will be rocking the following notes : Neroli (Italy), Lemon, Bergamot, Cedrat Peel, Lemon Verbena, Lime, Sweet Orange, Petitgrain, Rhubarb, Lime Leaves, Cedrat Heart, Lavender, Rosemary, Rose, Sandalwood, Patchouli, Amber, White Musk, Ambergris & Vetiver.


APR Raconteur

In November 2019 the last ‘full set’ offering was released under the APR branding that was not a collaboration –

Raconteur

Raconteur, a grand tale of Coffee, Whiskey, Leather, Civet, Sandalwood & Tuberose.. and that is just the open.

It was released as a shaving soap, aftershave and EdT with a Extrait subsequently available.

Try That Soap has the notes including –

  • Civet
  • Spices
  • Tuberose
  • Cedar
  • Patchouli
  • Guaiac Wood
  • Musk
  • Leather
  • Whiskey
  • Labdanum
  • Sandalwood
  • Coffee
  • Castoreum


APR Eclipse

Later in November 2019 there was another LE collaboration released, this time with Highland Springs Soap Co.

Eclipse

Eclipse was born from a desire to create a dark musky fragrance, although at the time, we had no idea it would bear that moniker. We have collaborated with Australian private reserve as they are well-known in creating complex scents; a perfect fit.

The long list of notes come together beautifully to create a truly one of a kind experience. Russian leather and dark musk are predominant initially, followed by blond tobacco dried fig and bourbon then rounding out with floral notes of Carnation, Geranium and Lavender.

The dry down on this scent emphasizes it’s complexity, like the moon slowly passing in front of the sun, it darkens over time, leaving you in the shadows of Eclipse.

[Description from HSSC website]


Les Oudhs

Once again under the Reserve Privée nomenclature, in May 2020

Reserve Privée Les Oudhs

100ml Eau de Parfum in a tall, round glass pillar sourced for this edition. The flacon seats with a simple transparent label, there is a deliberate exclusion of superfluous distraction in the Reserve Privée style. The composition does not need to shout, there will be no billboard.
~~
The Shaving Soap receptacles are handmade, polished flint coloured wood with a snug fitting lid, a matching 50ml Aftershave is included. Both, only available with the purchase of the Eau de Parfum.
~~
The 30ml & 60ml extrait flacons further reflect the exclusion of superfluity. The complete edition is effortlessly appointed, Immediately classic and a set for collectors.

Later that month there was a ‘Private release for /r/wetshaving #wetshaving IRC Reddit deplorables’.

Marbles

This was released, in collaboration with Noble Otter, as an extrait, aftershave and soap.  It was a it was a special edition for the IRC sub #wetshaving

Marbles

Gravefruit

A collaboration with Southern Witchcrafts, in June 2020

Gravefruit

A pact of light and dark, essentially entwined in a special Summer Release of both notes and multiple accords. Of citrus, Yuzu, Passionfruit, Grapefruit, Pear & Green Mango anchored below by fractions of Vetiver, Frankincense, Elemi, Sandalwood and damp earthy accords reflecting the subterranean down under…

This release is 100% Vegan Friendly. Absolutely no animal products were used in the Perfume composition or design.

Perfume design and compounding by AP Reserve.

This is a US release with Shaving Soap, Aftershave Splash and Eau de Parfum produced by @southernwitchcrafts & @dogwoodhandcrafts

[Note, the Gravefruit II released by Southern Witchcrafts has scents by Shawn Maher of Chattilon Lux]


santal noir

A collaboration with House of Mammoth, in June 2020, this built off the release of the Santal Noir scent as an EdP under the AP Reserve Escentials theme –

Santal Noir

Santal Noir is a sophisticated design, resting on Sandalwoods with a heart of Agarwood, Dark Rose, Jasmine, Jonquil, Cassis, Lemon, and more.


That is all for this fifth, and final, instalment of the Australian Private Reserve collection.  Coming in late?  You can start from the first post in this series and see where it all began.

If there are any errors or omissions or you have some information to add, please contact me.


Australian Private Reserve (APR) - Part Four

Australian Private Reserve (APR) came and went over the course of about 3 years or so.  In that time it got a lot of international attention for an Australian shaving artisan.

See Part One for the ‘origin story’ and details of the very early scents.

See Part Two for the early phase of commercial operation and the scents involved.

Then Part Three covers the remainder of 2017.

This post follows on and aims to focus on the scents in the next stage of the APR project through 2018.

APR Velour Noir
SOTD post from 4 May 2018 Announcing the release of Velours Noir LE set.

Velours Noir LE

Released in May 2018

Dark Molecules and the changing of the seasons. Black Velvet –Velours Noir the new AP Reserve fragrance that is masculine, intelligent and Limited Edition.

Smoky dark Haitian Vetiver, timeless Sandalwood and clean textured Mahogany with a suggestion of Agar Wood forms the base of our latest creation exploring the contrasts of the changing seasons with the finest woods in accord with beautiful clean citrus.

A heart of warm Cedarwood, exotic Ginger and cooling indulgent French Lavender envelopes the heart of the fragrance.

For the top opening notes we insisted on something to focus the effortless contrast of our design, something to challenge and create an accord with the deep base notes.

We have constructed a beautiful citrus accord of White Grapefruit, Orange, Lime and Bergamot with a whisper of Japanese Yuzu to accentuate the sour, sweet enduring citrus bouquet that travels with the fragrance.

Top Notes: White Grapefruit, Orange, Lime, Bergamot, Yuzu
Heart Notes: Cedarwood, Ginger, Lavender
Base Notes: Haitian Vetiver, Sandalwood, Mahogany, Agarwood


APR Maggard Razors
By this stage APR products, including these new releases, were stocked at a number of US and Canadian retailers

Winter 2018 Line up

The Australian Private Reserve (APR) Winter 2018 line up was described here.

Fenchurch

Anything that happens, happens.

Fenchurch is a skilfully textured, masculine composition built on an indulgent base that is encompassing, refined and luxurious.

A note of important documents, paper and velum. Warm balsams meet sweet vanilla, while potent animal musk accents fragrant patchouli and opulent tuberose to establish a solid foundation. We don’t do compromise.

Beautiful leathers, both old and new sit atop the base notes defining layers of texture and experience, sweet tobacco flower is in accord with dark tobacco leaf. Fenchurch explores the many varieties of fine things.

Whiskey completes the proceedings with the narcotic notes of Heliotropin and nuances of sweet plum.

Top Notes Include: Whiskey, Heliotrope & Dark Plum
Heart Notes Include: Leathers, Suede, Tobacco Flower & Dark Tobacco Leaf
Base Notes Include: Papyrus, Benzoin, Labdanum, Vanilla, Animal Musk, Patchouli & Tuberose

Ozymandias

We are proud to release Ozymandias, a tour de force of vibrant dark woods teaming with creamy, refined Mysore Sandalwood finished impeccably with white musk and dark resinous vanilla.

Heart notes of generous Rosewood, beautiful floral Orris and the warmth of Cedar resting on the sweetness of Honey. The sum is greater than the whole accord.

The warming camaraderie of white rums suitably aged and rested, accented by intangible suggestions of Red Cherry and Blueberry as the fragrance opens.

To experience Ozymandias is to experience a deep fragrance of multiple accords, a narrative of agelessness, memory and time where the lone and level sands stretch far away

Top Notes Include: White Rum, Red Cherry & Blueberry
Heart Notes Include: Rosewood, Orris, Cedarwood & Honey
Base Notes Include: Oudh, Mysore Sandalwood, White Musks, Vanilla & Ambergris


APR_Skye_Fall

During this winter another limited edition set was released, only with an EDT –

Skye Fall

No waxing lyrical this time, this is what SkyeFall ‘smells like’

SkyeFall smells like a stupidly rich, deep, creamy masculine gentleman’s fragrance that combines (in accord) Indian Mysore Sandalwood, Ambergris, Tobacco & Single Malt Whiskey ably assisted by Yerba Mate abs, a tiny hint of leather and civet. It is full bodied, very slightly herbaceous with beautiful spiced black tea, a little peat, some caramel balsams and a very special pepper top note.

Top Notes Include: Pepper…
Heart Notes Include: Carnation, Rosewood, Thyme & Cardamom
Base Notes Include: Sandalwood, Ambergris, Amyris, Tobacco Flower, Whiskey, Yerba Mate, Leather & Civet


Spring 2018 Line up

The Australian Private Reserve (APR) Spring 2018 line up was described here.

‘Lavioletta’ – Soap/Splash & EDP

A celebration with a festival of lavenders, Egyptian and French Violet, Iris, Pink Pepper, Réunion Geranium, Tonka Bean, Patchouli, Oakmoss & Sandalwood set atop a tenacious and beautiful musk accord.

A classic fragrance opening of French Lemon Verbena & Calabrian Bergamot provide elegance before receding to the finest Lavenders, resting on the beauty of the base.

Top Notes Include: Lemon Verbena (France), Bergamot
Heart Notes Include: French, Spanish & Australian Lavenders, Réunion Geranium, French Violet, Heliotrope, Accacia & Pink Pepper
Base Notes Include: Sandalwood Mysore, Egyptian Violet, Iris, Oakmoss, Tonka & White Musk.

‘Florian’ LE – Soap/Splash & EDT

A bright, modern aromatic Fougère of fresh gentle citrus, florals, musk and woods with a final grand gesture from Elemi to open the fragrance.

Enduring, discretely floral and very intricate in design the narrative of the fragrance is revealed over hours after a diffuse opening of aldehydic florals, superb citrus in a vertical accord of crisp Elemi and refined citrus.

Top Notes Include: Italian Neroli, Bergamot & Sweet Lemon
Heart Notes Include: Petitgrain, Rosewood, Bigaradier, Cyclamen & Herbs
Base Notes Include: Elemi, Ambergris, Amyris, Vanilla, Spanish Moss & Musk


APR_Les-Santals

In September 2018 the first offering was released under the ‘réserve privée’ nomenclature –

édition Les Santals – réserve privée

April of 2017 saw the first offering of a composition built around a specific batch of Mysore Sandalwood (Santalum album) of a superb quality that was eponymously named

‘The Santal’.

All the perfumes were acquired minutes after I made my post which was an addendum to a Winter release. I knew then that there were others who deeply appreciate such rare things, and this has been repeatedly confirmed as I still receive emails from all over the globe in relation to the release from others who share my love of pure indulgence in relation to their fragrances.

This sophomore edition sees a downright raucous and disgraceful celebration of Sandalwood, however I thought it was time to push out the boat somewhat after having evaluated a number of the most refined and beautiful Sandalwoods in the world.

Obtained from only the heartwood, I present for your consideration the curated Sandalwoods that will form the majestic vertical accord for les santals

Indian Sandalwood santalum album
Australian Sandalwood santalum spicatum
New Caledonian Sandalwood santalum austrocaledonicum

These oils have been incorporated into a superbly rounded masculine symphony, with the sole intention of affording them a stage so they reveal their sublime complexity, difference and inimitable beauty.

édition Les Santals – réserve privée

The aftershave for this release is an exclusive edition of the AP Reserve base that contains imported Sandalwood hydrosol in addition to the regular skin foods present in the AP Reserve Aftershave.


APR_Passione

Summer 2018 Line up

The Australian Private Reserve (APR) Summer 2018 line up was described here.

Passione

A bright, radiant Fougère of high projection – this composition is tradition turned on its head with a cavalier and very bold complexity.

Passione opens in dramatic style with an accord of tart Passion fruit, Apricot, Peach and Raspberry bursting forward in a mélange of citrus and tart fruit notes.

We follow through on the opening presence with deeper layers of complexity as we explore the depth of Passion fruit flesh, the intricacy of Lime leaves married to the sour citrus floral tones of Green Apple.

A traditional base anchors the composition ensuring longevity and a solid base, Elemi providing the necessary vertical accord for the explosive opening with the sweetness of Vanilla and Musk ensuring the balance of sharp citrus and sweet fruit.

Top Notes Include: Passion fruit, Apricot, Peach & Raspberry
Heart Notes Include: Passion fruit Flesh, Lime Leaves, Green Apple, Geranium & Lavender
Base Notes Include: Oakmoss, Tonka, Sandalwood, Elemi, Vanilla & Musk

Bombora

AP Reserve is proud to announce our first Citrus Aquatic fragrance for the new season, Bombora is a powerful, fresh and sharp citrus Aquatic encompassing cold, clean oceans and fresh sea air with a suggestion of salt water and ozonic aquatica.

The fragrance opens with the crispness of French Cedrat and the sharp citrus of Tangerine dressed with Meyer Lemon, Bergamot and tart citrus Lime for a refreshing and very modern aquatic experience.

The dry down sees muted narcotic florals, hinting at a darkness beneath the waves through to the dry down of Ambergris, fresh sea-weed and algae and hints of Woods and clean white musk.

Top Notes Include: Tangerine, Cedrat, Lemon, Bergamot, Lime & Aquatic Notes
Heart Notes Include: Sea Breeze, Narcissus, Freesia, Aldehydes, Watermelon & Ozone
Base Notes Include: Ambergris (NZ), Seaweed, Algae, Driftwood, Amber & White Musk

APR_Bombora

AP Reserve P&C Festivus SE

Limited edition special gift to Paste & Cut members.

Opening Notes include: Juniper, Lime, Grapefruit, Orange & Bergamot

Heart Notes Include: Cardamom, Nutmeg, Carnation, Red Pepper, Aldehydes & Cucumber

Base Notes Include: Cashmere, Patchouli, Mahogany, Coriander, Castoreum & Amber


APR_Fresca_Intensa_EDP

In December 2018 a limited release EDP was announced –

Fresca Intensa EDP

An explosive mod of our incredibly popular ‘Fresca’ taking the fragrance to exciting and intense new levels for the summer months.

APR demanded a refreshingly new design for Fresca, a fragrance that is crisp and invigorating, with a masculine sophistication and body to embrace the classic Italian freshness of pure and sweet spring citrus, drenched in sunshine.
Beautiful and elegant musk’s accord with sandalwood, rosewood, jasmine and the finest citrus oils to create a design synergy of uplifting citrus that endures with classical style.
Fresca, it’s Italian for fresh!

Top Notes Include: Italian Neroli, Italian Lemon, Cedrat, Bergamot, Lime & Sweet Orange
Heart Notes Include: Petitgrain, Rosewood, Rosemary & Jasmine
Base Notes Include: Musk, Mysore Sandalwood & Patchouli


That might be all for this fourth instalment of the Australian Private Reserve collection.  Come back next week for Part Five.


Simpson Jubilee

The Simpson Jubilee Shaving Brush

The Simpson Jubilee was a limited edition brush created to commemorate the Diamond Jubilee (60th anniversary) of Queen Elizabeth II’s reign.

With Her Majesty’s passing last week it seemed fitting to use this brush for my weekend shaves, a small way of showing respect.  Of course this year marks her Platinum Jubilee (70 years) although Simpson Shaving Brushes didn’t seek to mark that milestone.

The handle was crafted from faux Briarwood with a diameter of around 35mm and height around 45mm.

Each brush was engraved and ‘gold’ filled, with mine reading:

‘QE II
1952 – 2012
19/150.

Engraving on handle

Of course, each was numbered differently!

Simpson Jubilee No 1

The knot in the Simpson Jubilee was Simpson’s Manchurian badger, a 23 mm knot with around 50 mm loft.

Overall height with handle is around 92mm – so it is not a big brush by contemporary standards

One of the cool features though is a 2012 Isle of Man coin in the base of the handle …

The other side of the 2012 Isle of Man coin in the base of the handle you obviously cannot see.

The reverse side shows Tynwald Hill and St Johns Chapel.

Isle_Man_Reverse

In recognising the historical milestone of the Diamond Jubilee, we also need to acknowledge the long history of A E Simpson Shaving Brushes, as discussed earlier here.

In use the Jubilee is an outstanding brush. It is a joy to use, a size I like, and whips up a consistent lather.

In the future though, whenever I use it I will also always be reminded of Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II.  A woman of amazing grace and service.

QEII

Australian Private Reserve (APR) - Part Three

Australian Private Reserve (APR) came and went over the course of about 3 years or so.  In that time it got a lot of international attention for an Australian shaving artisan.

See Part One for the ‘origin story’ and details of the very early scents.

See Part Two for the early phase of commercial operation and the scents involved.

This post follows on and aims to focus on the scents in the next stage of the APR project.

Australians All

Australians All LE

In October 2017 Australian Private Reserve (APR) collaborated with another Australian artisan, soap maker Squadron Soaps.

A very limited run of 22 sets of soap and splash under the name ‘Australians All’ was released.

Top Notes include: Mint, Sweet Orange, Lime, Guava
Heart Notes include : Lemon Myrtle, Eucalyptus & Lavender
Base Notes include: Vanilla, Musk & Amber


Summer 2017 Line up

The Australian Private Reserve (APR) Summer 2017 line up was described here.

Lightning Ridge

The season of the Australian Summer is untamed, solar radiation floods the stratosphere and ultra violet drenches our land and we have come to live with the power of searing winds carrying exceptional heat.

We sit on a precipice relieved by sudden and furious electrical storms, ozone surges downward from the stratosphere while deluges of torrential rain fall on searing parched and dusty earth releasing a most unique compound.

This is what we have captured, and it is called Lighting Ridge.

The tart electric notes of Ozone rest with ripe and fresh summer fruits of Limes, Guava, Bergamot and the zest of White Grapefruit forming a diffuse seasonal accord of potent and enduring summer citrus.

Star Anise provides a sweet balsamic heart with the sweet flesh of white pears and Lilly suffused with diffuse ozone and the ubiquitous smell of dry, cracked dusty earth quenched with rain that is known as petrichor.

Sweet, warm musk’s establish the base notes and they sit aside the intoxicating wet earth notes of fragrant Patchouli.

The Aftershave for this product is lightly mentholated to provide cooling relief.

Fragrance Profile

Top Notes Include: Lime, Guava, Bergamot, White Grapefruit & Petrichor
Heart Notes Include: Ozone, Green Pear, Star Anise & Lily
Base Notes Include: Musk & Patchouli

Suitably Attired Summer

Suitably Attired Australian was a fragrance we released last season that drew inspiration from Creed’s Green Irish Tweed and it was incredibly popular. We thought we would go one better though this summer, so we started a fresh with new inspiration and completely redesigned it….we added swagger.

The top notes are a summer accord of lemons, warm honeyed mandarins, the sweet cognac of plums and the sour sweet notes of Rhubarb with the merest suggestion of Lemon Verbena.

A focussed and elegant heart with Frangipani notes and iris places with the deep tones of Violet Absolute and Ivy, a radiant and complex floral heart accord that sits atop the Ambergris, Mysore Sandalwood and delicate Musk as a homage to the classic base notes of our inspiration.

We are always suitably attired as should you be, but this Summer we are suitably attired with swagger.

The matching Aftershave for this product is lightly mentholated to provide cooling relief.

Fragrance Profile

Top notes include: Mandarin, Lemon, Neroli & Lemon Verbena
Heart Notes Include: Iris, Frangipani, Violet & Ivy
Base Notes Include: Ambergris, Mysore Sandalwood, Tonka & Musk

We have employed our own proprietary AP Reserve Ambergris accord in this design, it has a composition of synthetic Ambergris and Ambergris tincture.

Coolabah

We are proud to present our first LE release this summer to be released only as a soap and matching splash in limited numbers.

We like to innovate in our fragrances and we love the cooling shade of a Coolabah, this fragrance takes the renowned fragrance notes used in Aventus and applies them to our own design to deliver a contemporary fragrance that delivers elegance and definite masculine posture with understated character.

From the top down we see Italian Bergamot accorded with the rich sweetness of Black Currant, the tart freshness of pineapple and the sweetness of ripe fresh pears.

A light mild Patchouli rests alongside sweet mature wood and an imperceptible note of Jasmine to frame the character of this summer fragrance and project the beauty of the top note design.

We have rounded out the essential base of Coolabah with our Ambergris accord, a rich Turkish Oakmoss, the sweetness of Vanilla and a ribald and very raucous masculine animal musk.

Both the soap and the aftershave are pleasantly mentholated.

Top notes include: Bergamot, Black currant, Pineapple, Pear

Heart Notes include: Patchouli, Woods, Jasmine

Base Notes include: Ambergris, Oakmoss, Vanilla, Musk

Created for a special Paste & Cut meet up in December of that year was a very limited edition aftershave –

APR ‘Borked’

Top Notes: Yuzu Fruit, Yuzu Zest & Kaffir Lime
Heart Notes: Carnation, Ivy, Plumeria & Damask Rose
Base Notes: Ambergris, Olibanum, Myrrh & Rock Rose


APR Junos Royale

During the summer another limited edition was released, only as an EDP –

Junos Royale

I am proud to present my first Limited Edition Eau de Parfum – Junos Royale which is a fragrance design for summer anchored with the pure beauty of Japanese Yuzu – Citrus Junos. This is a premium fragrance and will not be offered as a soap or an aftershave, it is designed to compliment the many summer fragrances both from AP Reserve and other vendors and is for those that enjoy premium products and want something truly individual as a Summer signature fragrance.

It is an extravagance by design, it’s a bold and long lasting citrus perfume that is made with premium ingredients and without any concern as to compromise – the components in this fragrance are very costly, but this cost is reflected in their purity and the soaring accord I have designed after a lot of hard work.

This fragrance wears incredibly well both casually and in the office. It is not loud, brash or flash in the pan and it takes an different pathway than the Italian colonias entirely exposing a very different and nuanced family of citrus notes almost oriental in nature, without any of the materials that comprise that family of fragrances.

Junos Royale opens with the sweet citrus complexity of Yuzu, the classic refinement of Neroli with undertones of Mandarin and Pink Grapefruit. It is neither sweet, or sour but occupies the plane equidistant on a grand stage that is complex, mysterious and unknowable. This design explores nuance in summer, taking the idea of what we know and expect of a citrus-floral fragrance and making it masculine, different, interesting.

As the dry-down commences the Rose does not reveal itself, nor is the Jasmine perceptible rather the character of the citrus top notes evolves revealing new aspects to their individual character.

The fragrance rests on the most refined and suitable accord of Ambrette Musk, pure amber and fine French orris butter which act to offer a depth that is neither sweet or floral, but exist to further the beauty of the citrus top notes and to ensure longevity well into the day.

Top Notes Include: Yuzu Fruit, Italian Neroli, Mandarin, Pink Grapefruit
Heart Notes Include: Rose Damask, Plumeria & Jasmine
Base Notes include: Musk Ambrette, Amber & Orris Butter


That might be all for this third instalment of the Australian Private Reserve collection.  Come back next week for Part Four.


British Aristocrat Ladiges SOTD

The Story of A British Aristocrat

A British Aristocrat, always a nice razor, so I was interested already.  It was also engraved, presented to a Mr A British Aristocrat engraved and presented to a Mr Ladiges …

‘To C Ladiges
From Mignon Hosiery Pty Ltd
On enlistment in A.I.F.
24.4.41.

Engraving on Case

Of course, I couldn’t just leave it there …

British Aristocrat Ladiges Engraving

A bit of research turns up the service records of a ‘hosiery operator’ who enlisted on 28 April 1941 –

LADIGES, CLIFFORD GEORGE

Service Number – VX54292
Date of birth – 27 June 1919
Place of birth – DAYLESFORD VIC
Place of enlistment – ROYAL PARK VIC
Next of Kin – LADIGES F

His full service history records are available online here.

Ladiges_Enlistment
Photo on enlistment

From what I can read, it is a little hard to decipher the writing, he was sent to the Middle East and injured, wounded in action, which required partial amputation of his foot.

Some further research indicates the details of his parents:

Father: Frederick Christopher Ladiges

Mother: Mary Elizabeth (Mary) Howard

Clifford George Ladiges was born 27 June 1919 in Daylesford, Victoria (Certificate Number 18538), Source: Victoria, Australia Birth Index, 1836-1920. 

He married Blanche May Esdaile in 1943, the same year he was discharged from the army.  They had three children.

There seems to be some discrepancy regarding his death. The Victoria Australia Death Index, 1836 – 1985 indicates that he died 1963 Heidelberg Victoria (Certificate Number 00930).  The National Archives record Year of Death – 1962; Crematorium – Fawkner VIC.  His actual death certificate shows he died on 30 December 1962 in Heildelberg and was cremated at Fawkner Crematorium on 2 January 1963.

May he rest in peace


What became of Mignon Hosiery Pty Ltd?

Mignon_Mill_Herald_340929This company was established on 6 August 1934, capital
£75.000 in £1 shares. Subscribers: Cyrus Herbert Glover and Isa Rose according to The Herald.  Less than a fortnight later tenders were called for ‘the ERECTION and COMPLETION of BRICK FACTORY Moreland Road Coburg’ for the newly established company.  The cost of the factory, reported in the article above, using the vast bulk of the company’s capital funds.

By the next year, 1935, they were advertising that they had created ‘ideal factory conditions’ and the following year claiming to be the ‘Ultimate in Hosiery’.  Things seemed to be going well and in 1937 they were advertising ‘Regular employment under Ideal conditions’, although clearly not everyone agreed.  A month after that advertisement there was a strike reported, albeit short-lived as it settled the following day.  The whole industry was expanding at that time, largely in the Brunswick area it was reported.

There were even scams claimed, where a ‘bogus representative offers the householder a popular brand of Mignon Hosiery, which retails at 7/ 1 1 per pair, for 3/6 per pair. A shilling deposit is collected from the unsuspecting householder, pending delivery of the supposed purchase. The sham representative then disappears completely’.

In 1947 it was reported that ‘Two Brunswick hosiery mills — Hilton and Mignon — are merging their interests. A new company, Hilton Hosiery Ltd., is being registered’.  IN 1959 the company changed its name to Hilton Corporation Limited and a decade later to Courtaulds Hilton Limited.  In 1984 it was taken over by Bradmill Industries Limited, which itself was taken over later in the year and the name changed to Entrad Corporation Limited.  This company went into liquidation in 2000.

It seems that the gift has outlasted the giver …


Further research from somebody who saw this story leads to Clifford George’s ancestors:

Hans Hinrich LADIGES was born around 1790 and married Anna LUDERS.

Child: Dittmar LADIGES (b. 05 Aug 1810, d. 03 Jun 1887
married Elizabeth WITT (b. 13 Oct 1812, d. 09 Feb 1891)
Child: Herman LADIGES [1] (b. 1840, Holm Hostein d. 02 Feb 1918)
married Eliza Emma HINES [2] (b. 19 Sep 1852, d. 08 Oct 1931)

Children:
Ernest Dittmer LADIGES (b. 1870, d. 05 Dec 1925)
Conrad Henry LADIGES (b. 27 Apr 1873, d. 08 Nov 1904)
Herman William LADIGES (b. 13 Mar 1876, d. 22 Sep 1953)
Frederick Christopher LADIGES [3] (b. 1877) (our soldier’s father)
Dora Alice LADIGES (b. circa 1880)
Alfred Joseph LADIGES (b. 02 May 1882, d. 25 Dec 1891)
Emma LADIGES (b. 18 Dec 1884)
Eliza Matilda LADIGES (b. 21 Oct 1888)
Lizzie Ellen LADIGES (b. 21 Oct 1888, d. 17 Nov 1888)
Lucy Ellen LADIGES (b. 17 Oct 1891, d. 29 Dec 1964)

[1] In 1861, Herman LADIGES arrived in Australia aboard “Dorothea”. Buried Daylesford Cemetery. “Holstein” is the German State of “Schleswig Holstein”

[2] Daughter of James HINES and Eliza MATHEWS

[3] Excerpt from “The Daylesford Advocate”, 21 Mar 1914 edition: “… At a meeting held at Leonard’s Hill, for the purpose of forming a State School Committee, to hold office for three years, the following gentlemen were elected: Chairman, Cr. J. Wilkie; Correspondent, Mr J. C. Gamble, 5 Messrs; W Ross, A Easton, J McAndrew, F. Ladiges, D. Holmes. …”

Frederick Christopher LADIGES
(b. 14 or 17 Nov 1877, Leonard’s Hill, Daylesford)
d. 10 Jan 1947, Daylesford)
and
Mary Elizabeth (m.s. HOWARD) LADIGES
(b. 25 April 1878, Telegraph Sawmills, Eganstown, Victoria d. unknown)
had 10 children;
Irene
Faustina
Mavis Louise
Sylvia Eliza
Fredrick William
Olive Mary
Leslie Francis
John Edward Henry (b. 1917 d. 1918)
Clifford George
Stanley John

Thanks to those who contributed to this story – it is much appreciated.


Australian Private Reserve (APR) - Part Two

Australian Private Reserve (APR) came and went over the course of about 3 years or so.  In that time it got a lot of international attention for an Australian shaving artisan.

See Part One for the ‘origin story’ and details of the very early scents.

This post follows on and aims to focus on the scents in the next stage of the APR project.

Early APR Logo
Early APR Logo - designed in house

Autumn 2017 Line up

The Australian Private Reserve (APR) Autumn 2017 line up was described here.

Alfredus Choice

A bold, rich elegant chypre with a heart of rich resinous cedar and damp, earthy spice.
The product of a choice that relies on an intricate chemistry and execution of design.

It’s rich and woody, with notes of deep teak, rich teas scaffold deep white grapefruit and
the scent of fresh cut basil absolute.

It speaks to a choice of sophistication, style and presence.

Top Notes: White Grapefruit, Bergamot, Basil
Heart Notes: Cedarwood, Ginger, Nutmeg, Violet, Lavender
Base Notes: Ambergris, Tonka, Oakmoss, Mysore Sandalwood

General Ledger

A modern Fougère with a paramount and traditional interpretation.
Verdant green Fern notes from the French Oakmoss supported with a suggestion of vetiver, rounded out by a warm bed of coumarin.

Middle notes of French lavender, cinnamon and Geranium scaffold a top of bright Italian Bergamot, citrus and warm sweet exotic Rose Maroc Absolute.

Top Notes: Bergamot, Rose Maroc
Heart Notes: Lavender, Nutmeg, Cinnamon Bark, Geranium
Base Notes: Oakmoss, Vetiver, Tonka

Mycroft

Brother of Sherlock Holmes, resident of one 221B Baker St as penned by Conan Doyle in his seminal texts on the grand detective.

We have designed a stylish and exacting Autumnal scent with rich clear notes of Juniper resting effortlessly on Bergamot and a dalliance of Jasmine Grandiflorium Absolute.

For the base we have engaged no less, the rich narcotic Labdanum Absolute as is truly fitting, a raw raunchy Animal Musk and the sweet intoxicating coumarin drenched Tonka Absolute.

A thoroughly intoxicating, sophisticated and effortlessly elegant fragrance for cooler times and higher minds.

Top Notes: Calabrian Bergamot, Jasmine Absolute
Heart Notes: Juniper
Base Notes: Labandum, Musk, Tonka, Vetiver

Suitably Attired Australian

A fragrance that considerably develops and evolves the design, concept and execution of the
‘Smart Dressed Man’ whose heritage is Creed’s renowned Greed Irish Tweed. A modern, present
and long lasting fragrance that reflects the contemporary, and suitably attired Australian male.

Bright citrus rests on notes of Verbena and Violet Absolute with a warm base of Sandalwood and
Amber. It’s proud and unabashed, make your presence known and ensure you are suitably attired.

Top Notes: Lemon, Verbena, Sweet Orange
Heart Notes: French Violet, Rosemary
Base Notes: Mysore Sandalwood, Fragrance Oil


Winter 2017 Line up

The Australian Private Reserve (APR) Winter 2017 line up was described here.

Fougère Bourbon Rose

A beautiful, dirty, deep winter Fougère accented by the smoky Réunion island Bourbon Rose..

Top Notes: Réunion Bourbon Rose
Heart Notes: Lavender, Geranium
Base Notes: Hay Absolute, Oakmoss, Vetiver, Tonka, Amber

Bay City

It’s a Bay-rum with a twist, think different: a balsamic and Vanillic base of musk, caramel and spicy Bay, a middle of sweet Cinnamon and orange topped off with the sweet, treacle notes of sweet deep caramel and black and red currant.

Top Notes: Black Currant Absolute, Red Currant
Heart Notes: Cinnamon, Sweet Orange
Base Notes: Benzoin, Musk, Peru Balsam, West Indian Bay

Winterfell

A very old chypre formulation with a contemporary fragrance design using genuine agarwood as an inspiration for something quite special. On application an accord of Sicilian Bergamot and cypress presents, gently receding to warm intoxicating Labdanum and sweet Rosewood, shortly thereafter something very special emerges and endures for hours.

Top Notes: Sicilian Bergamot, Cypress
Heart Notes: Labdanum, Rosewood
Base Notes: Brunei Agarwood, Patchouli, Oakmoss, Musk

The Santal

This is for Indian Mysore Sandalwood lovers who appreciate this exceptionally rare and scarce oil and there are only 2 bottles on offer. It is highly unlikely I will ever be able to offer this again due to the costs. I will be releasing a Limited Edition Soap and Splash (3 pucks, 3 bottles) and immediate and absolute preference will be given to those who own the EDP.

‘The Santal’ is an Eau De Parfum delivered at 32% strength in a 50ml frosted glass bottle.

Top Notes: Indian Mysore Sandalwood
Heart Notes: Indian Mysore Sandalwood
Base Notes: Musk Ambrette, Ambergris, Indian Mysore Sandalwood

APR_Idoru
Australian Private Reserve LE Seasonal 'Idoru'

During that winter another limited edition was released –

‘Idoru’

We are very proud to release Idoru after being approached to design a fragrance around the revered Japanese Cypress known as Hinoki.

This Cypress is grown only in Japan where it is considered a ‘sacred wood’. The exquisite oil from this Tree is delicate, complex and nuanced. It carries beautiful notes of sweet lemon and a clean, smoky tone rich with woods.

We took the essence of this majestic Cypress and built a suitable foundation of Myrrh and Patchouli to really let the Hinoki soar. Our design intention was to ensure that this most prized of Japanese oils was given a full accord. Nothing less than a quantity of Ambergris was necessary to complete the foundation.

For the heart we determined Rosewood with its notes of Teak, Woods and Rose was ideal alongside other necessary elements. We completed the design with prized Ylang Ylang Extra to create a synergy between the delicate lemon and citrus notes of the Hinoki.

This was originally a private commission and is released with consent, the person who requested we design this fragrance wishes it to be shared.


Spring 2017 Line Up

In November 2016 the first batch was released as detailed here.  The names and descriptions of those scents are described as outlined below.

Coeur de Vert

There is little more enjoyable than the experience of the grand excellence of a fougère in the spring that embodies a Coeur de Vert…a heart of green.

AP Reserve is proud to unveil our meticulous work in re-imagining de Laires Mousse de Saxe and seamlessly integrating it into this fragrance design for your enjoyment.

Coeur de Vert is a fragrance of warm French grass and fresh cut hay, fields of aromatic clover that catch a delicate breeze with notes of basil and fine lavender courting the fleeting sweetness of deep forest violets and ferns.

After some time the elegance and beauty of de Laires masterpiece will emerge from within the fragrance on your skin and will remain for hours ever present.

Coeur de Vert is for everyday masculine elegance that purposefully reflects the finest traditions of the classic fougère, reimagined, with the spirit and love which Australian Private Reserve is renowned for in our fougères.

Top Notes Include: Rose, Violet, Mousse de Saxe, Fresh French Grasses & Clover
Heart Notes Include: Clover, Violet, Rose, Lavender & Sweet Basil
Base Notes Include: French Hay Absolute, Tonka Bean, Oakmoss & Mousse de Saxe

Fresca

The freshness of a clean and uplifting spring fragrance to be enjoyed in the warmth and light that is spring after the months of winter come to an end.

We demanded a refreshingly new design for Fresca, a fragrance that is crisp and invigorating, with a masculine sophistication and body to embrace the classic Italian freshness of pure and sweet spring citrus, drenched in sunshine.

Beautiful and elegant musk’s accord with sandalwood, rosewood, jasmine and the finest citrus oils to create a design synergy of uplifting citrus that endures with classical style.

We call it Fresca, it’s Italian for fresh!

Top Notes Include: Italian Neroli, Italian Lemon, Bergamot & Sweet Orange
Heart Notes Include: Rosewood, Rosemary & Jasmine
Base Notes Include: Musk’s, Mysore Sandalwood & Patchouli

Lixiviant

Evenings with a delicate warmth, exotic fragrances from emerging blossoms savored in a fleeting moment, this is the ceaseless chemistry of life.

We built Lixiviant intentionally in a grand style, with rich orris butter, resinous vanilla and tonka in accord with Artemisia, the most infamous, deep and legendary intoxicant known as Absinthe!

Royal magnolia, the honey notes of acacia and the delicate intricacy of ylang ylang contrast the sweet piquancy of fresh mint and tart cherry blossom, while ever present within the fragrance the mysterious and expansive complexity of Artemisia.

Gentlemen, we demonstrate a mature, intelligent and complex fragrance that sits effortlessly by design and we have called this Lixiviant. A stylish and adult fragrance of complexity, refinement and intrigue.

Top Notes Include: Mint, Artemisia, Cherry Blossom
Heart Notes Include: Magnolia, Ylang Ylang & Acacia
Base Notes Include: Orris, Vanilla, Musk, Tonka & Artemisia

APR Labels

At around the same time as these releases there was a mention of a very special limited release – G’day Mate

‘A special and unreleased LE Fougère with an accord built around Yerba maté (pronounced mar-tay) absolute (Ilex paraguariensis) that was designed as thank you to Ellis B Miller (Chatillon Lux, L&L Grooming, etc) my incredibly talented graphic designer who is responsible for the second iteration and the new iteration of the AP Reserve visual look and feel. It would be a gross understatement to say I am thankful for his skill. He is an ardent yerba mate drinker (as am I) so I thought it most fitting to incorporate this furiously expensive absolute into something a bit special for him.

Only 12 sets of this were produced and with the exception of 2, they are all headed to the US as a thank you to Ellis for his phenomenal work. In picture is ”Minerva” my Russian Blue fronting for Australia.’

APR GDay Mate

That might be all for this second instalment of the Australian Private Reserve collection.  Come back in a couple of weeks for Part Three.


Australian Private Reserve (APR) - Part One

Australian Private Reserve (APR) came and went over the course of about 3 years or so.  In that time it got a lot of international attention for an Australian shaving artisan.

This post is not intended to discuss any aspects of the APR business operations.  Those discussions have been had in shaving forums across the globe.  This post aims to focus on the APR project and capture for posterity details of some of what it produced.

An example of the essential oils that formed the foundation of the original APR 'accords'.
An example of the essential oils that formed the foundation of the original APR 'accords'.

Background

Australian Private Reserve (APR) started as a DIY Aftershave Splash Project.  You can read more on the origins and how the process unfolded on this thread at Paste & Cut.

As he indicates in the thread, the founder had ‘no experience making perfume’.  The name ‘Private Reserve’ was chosen for the project as it is ‘the name traditionally given to non commercial, or private fragrances’.  While the project was nominally to make aftershaves the initial proposed composition actually pushed the products into the EDT levels of concentrations of essential oils.

“Private Reserve is the name traditionally given to non commercial, or private fragrances.”
Thread – Private Reserve – DIY Aftershave Splash Project

To give a sense of the back and forth and ‘evolution’ in the early days, the initial proposed composition, of a 100 ml splash, was proposed to be:

  • 44 ml Perfumers Alcohol
  • 40 ml Witchhazel
  • 10 ml Glycerine
  • 6 ml Essential oil

The need to add Polysorbate 20 or similar product and other fine tuning became evident after a little while as you can read in that thread.  The ratios outlined above then changed to (making 100ml of Aftershave Splash at 6% Strength):

  • 55 ml Perfumers Alcohol
  • 24 ml Witch Hazel (14% alcohol Witch Hazel)
  • 14 ml Polysorb 20
  • 6 ml Essential Oils
  • 0.5 ml Glycerine

This only gives a total of 99.5 ml, with the extra 0.5 ml now kept for the addition of:

  • more polysorb-20 after mixing if necessary to clear up a cloudy solution, or
  • if the solution is clear enough, an extra .5 ml of alcohol or witch hazel.

It was very much a learning process in those early days, and a time where a lot of money was spent on equipment for this new hobby.


Australian Private Reserve First Batch
500ml Amber Boston bottles clearly labelled with Name, strength, and date. Pictured at the front in the 5ml amber bottles with drippers and 10gm tubs of post-shave balm to match the scents to be sent to original testers.

Australian Private Reserve First Batch

In November 2016 the first batch was released as detailed here.  The names and descriptions of those scents are described as outlined below.

PC – Un côtelette de porc – Pork Chop

This is a traditional vetiver based on a discontinued Vetiver by Creed. I don’t for a second think that I have achieved anything even close to Creed’s masterpiece. Vetivers are traditionally darker, woody scents that are autumnal or wintery in nature. They are deep, earthy, damp scents by their very nature.

Composition: Haitian Vetiver, French Oakmoss Absolute, Virginian Cedar Wood, Italian Bergamot, French Lavender, Australian Sweet Orange (NO), French Ginger

GL – les généraux du grand livre – The Generals Ledger

In the modern vocabulary of perfumery, this is a bright Fougère. A traditional Fougère has strong notes of grasses, ferns, damp earth with a slight, top note to brighten it up.

Modern Fougère varieties are generally more floral or, in this case ‘brighter’ – they have multiple notes to lighten them up, make them slightly floral and more welcoming. Another keeper, I am very pleased with this scent (I like the smell personally) and I particularly like the name and in effect tribute to the man himself, all round good guy with an epic razor collection and an equally epic number of spreadsheets.

Composition: French Oakmoss Absolute, Haitian Vetiver, Venezuelan Tonka, French Lavender, Nutmeg, Cinnamon Bark, Egyptian Geranium, Italian Bergamot, Rose Maroc.

AC –choix Alfredus – Alfredus Choice

This is a scent that I made for a friend who happens to be part of the ‘Euro ‘A’ list limited edition shave kit set’, chemist extraordinaire and another all-round good guy. I asked him to name some scents he liked, he did so and thus it was named.

Best described as a traditional Fougère although one that is woody with subdued citrus notes from the White Grapefruit and Bergamot. As this is Alfredus choice, and as yet he has not tried it, the formula may change if he advises me he does not like it, or wants emphasis on certain notes .

Composition: Ambergris, Venezuelan Tonka, French Oakmoss Absolute, Indian Mysore Sandalwood, French Ginger, Virginian Cedarwood, Nutmeg, French Lavender, French Violet, White Grapefruit, Italian Bergamot, Basil.

SV – Sandalwood, Lime, Verbena

This came about as I was dissatisfied with the ‘L’Occitane Verveine’ EDT that I paid $70 for. The problem with citrus EO’s and Verbena in particular is that scent doesn’t last.

Citrus top notes – Lemon, Lime and Verbena particularly are notoriously short lived.I set to making one that would last a little longer, after 15 or 20 formulas I hit upon one that I feel works. It’s nice, but simple – I will keep a bottle kicking around as I like the Verbena scents in summer.

This accord uses Essential Oils and Verbena Fragrance Oil. The next batch I do will Verbena EO that is quite expensive, but is a fragrance I really like in the hot humid months.

Composition: Australian Sandalwood, Lime, Spanish Lemon, Fragrance Oil

CS – Coconut Sandalwood

The first of the ‘Mystic’ companions, this one is for the limited edition Coconut Sandalwood. I have worked on the scent slightly and added essential oils alongside the fragrance oil that is used in the original soap.
This accord uses Essential Oils and Coconut Fragrance Oil.

Composition: Australian Sandalwood, Indian Mysore Sandalwood, Rosewood Oil (NO), Fragrance Oil.

WG – White Tea & Ginger

The second of the Mystic companions, again I spent some time with the scent of the original and made a few slight alterations to the Fragrance oil base adding one or two EO’s for longevity and roundness of the tea.

This accord uses Fragrance oil and Essential Oils

Composition: French Ginger, Venezuelan Tonka, Fragrance Oil.

SA – Suitably Attired Australian

Imagine a suitable attired gentlemen taking a leisurely walk surrounded by Green eucalyptus trees that remind him of tweed. He chances upon an Irish traveller who makes the Stirling suggestion that they take tea together.

This is another ‘interpretation’ of Creed’s Green Irish Tweed that uses the same Fragrance oil that Stirling and Mystic use in their GIT interpretations.

I have added EO’s for longevity and to liven up the heart and tops as the Fragrance Oil itself is fairly short lived and rather synthetic. It was fun to dabble, I quite like the scent but I am more interested in pure EO formulations and making something new and interesting. This is a one off.

This accord uses Essential Oils and Fragrance oil.

Composition: Ambergris, Indian Mysore Sandalwood, French Violet, Spanish Lemon, Rosemary, Australian Sweet Orange, Fragrance Oil.

Australian Private Reserve was born!

Australian Private Reserve Early Labels
Early Australian Private Reserve Bottles Showing Original Labels

A week later a few more scents were added –

‘EB’ – Easterly Breeze

This is one I have been working on for some weeks and came about from my correspondence with a certain soap-maker renowned for making exceptionally good artisan soaps. I happened to mention that I had acquired a tub of his particular soap which he was no longer making and explained that I was having some degree of trouble trying to pair it with a balm and splash.

This is an ‘unofficial’ scent, it is not endorsed or encouraged by the maker and it is the result of my own hard won formula to get the ratios as close to the soap as I can. I will say though that the Portuguese word for breeze is ‘Brisa’

Composition: Myrrh, Vanilla, Cinnamon, Basil, Cardamom

‘TB’ – sachet de thé (Tea Bag)

I sat with a tea-bag of Earl Grey in one hand and my ‘kit’ in the other determined and resolute – such a beautiful scent.

My intention in making this one is to pair with one of my favourite soaps from a highly skilled, highly popular US Artisan who currently does not have a splash or a balm for his particular soap. It is a homage and nothing beyond that but by golly does it smell so good!

Composition: Patchouli, Lavender, Clary Sage, Bergamot, Neroli, Mandarin

‘LO’ l’endroit orange

If you will, possibly climb the hill to the great city of… a great traditional barber shop scent.

Again another of my favourite soaps without a balm or splash, the same artisan who I have so much respect for and whose products I have a great many of, again there is no splash or balm to pair with his wonderful soap and a situation that I had to rectify if not for anyone but myself. A wonderfully traditional barbershop scent in the Italian style, so many worlds removed from the sweet and saccharine affair that is some others on the market.

Woody, citrusy, herbaceous, mildly floral and very Italian.

Composition: Oakmoss, Patchouli, Rosemary, Bergamot, Lemon, Orange


Australian Private Reserve Summer Line up 2017

In January 2017 the first ‘commercial’ release line up was announced here.  The names and descriptions of those scents are described as outlined below.

sachet de thé – Tea Bag

The essence of a very popular and enjoyable soap is captured using high grade essential oils in this refined, masculine herbaceous and citrus scent that is ideal for long hot summers drinking iced Earl Grey tea in Cheshire.

The scent uses a Musk and Patchouli base to offer a platform for clary sage, lavender and top notes of Calabrian Bergamot and Australian Lemon to shine.

Composition: Musk, Patchouli, Clary Sage, Lavender, Bergamot, Lemon

le courier – The Mail

A companion scent to the exceptionally formulated and wonderfully scented artisan soap ‘Gea’ that itself is based on the modern Fougère ‘le male’ by JPG.

The original is a complex perfume (as is the artisan soap) and this fragrance represents and compliments that complexity superbly taking no shortcuts as to composition. This was a lot of work, it is a very complex fragrance and saw 15-20 iterations prior to resting on something that was befitting, I am incredibly happy with this particular fragrance.

A base of Vanilla, Sandalwood, Tonka and Cedar. A heart of Cinnamon and Lavender. A top of Mint Cardamom and Bergamot with a few more too!

On opening the bottle the pure vanilla and mint are evident immediately in accord with the French Lavender. Bergamot and Neroli are balanced deeply within, the warmth of the Vanilla and Tonka wash over the senses but within the fragrance as a whole is an elusive, beautiful, mysterious accord that completes this most modern and complex of Fougères

Composition: Indian Mysore Sandalwood, Tonka, Madagascan Vanilla Absolute, Cinnamon, Lavender, Neroli, Mint, Cardamom, Bergamot.

bois de santal citron vert verviene– Sandalwood, Lime, Verbena

A limited edition scent that did not see release in the initial offering but one that proved to be very popular from the testers. A very bright & clean, tart refreshing summer citrus fragrance with sweet notes that has excellent silage and endurance.

Composition: Sandalwood, Black Pepper, Lime, Verbena.

pamplemousse injonction – Grapefruit Injunction

Tart and refreshing, this is a fragrance that commences an action without haste, petitioning for immediate, enduring relief from the heat and humidity of summer. Frankly quite a stupid name, but it’s a fantastic scent though if you like lasting, tart and balanced citrus.

Venezuelan Tonka provides the foundation for Black Pepper & White Grapefruit, the top notes are deep, sour grapefruit with the juxtaposition of Lilly of the Valley that serves as a wonderful contrast while offering depth to the proceedings.

This was formulated to pair with Mystic ‘Pompelo e Fiori’, however it works very well with Arlington or indeed any citrus soap. If you like sour Lime scents, you will love this.

Composition: Tonka, Black Pepper, Grapefruit, Lilly

L’endroit orange – The Orange Place

A bright, sharp and very well balanced citrus fragrance with the herbaceous presence to match its namesake ‘Seville’. This fragrance is a tribute to and a continuance of the tradition of Italian Barbershop fragrances with a nod of respect and homage to AdP.

Powdery Oakmoss and Patchouli set the tone for the woody, herbaceous heart of Rosemary and Lavender. The traditional barbershop of fresh, clean fragrances come from Calabrian Bergamot, Lemon and Bitter Orange in the famous Italian Barbershop accord.

This is well rounded, smooth, intelligent and sophisticated without the excessively sweet notes of contemporary barbershop fragrances. It pairs bloody well with Seville of course,but equally it’s one for those that like a classic fresh, clean, herbaceous and citrus Barbershop scent.

The Calabrian Bergamot Essential Oil is Bergaptene Free.

Composition: Oakmoss, Patchouli, Rosemary, Lavender, Bergamot, Lemon, Bitter Orange

Fête au citron – Lemon Party

Man’s long quest for the citrus is finally complete and he is without option, he must join the Lemon Party!

This is unashamedly a complex citrus fragrance with tart, sour and concurrently sweet accords. I am extremely pleased with the result and I intend on wearing it often as it works and pairs with so many summer soaps from Occam’s, to Shaver Heaven, B&M to Mike’s etc.

Built on a foundation of warm, sweet Amber and Vanilla Absolute with a heart of Black Pepper, Clary Sage and Lemon Grass.

Two groves, one crop at the top…Lime, Bergamot, Lemon, Neroli, Brazilian Bitter Orange, Sweet Orange and Mandarin (amongst others) form complex, bright and vibrant citrus accords that are carefully accented with the merest suggestion of sweetness as a suitable contrast to the lemon party that is in full swing.

The Calabrian Bergamot Essential Oil is Bergaptene Free.

Composition: Amber, Vanilla, Black Pepper, Clary Sage, Lemon Grass, Bergamot, Lime, Neroli, Lemon, Sweet Orange, Bitter Orange, Mandarin

WG – White Tea & Ginger

The second of the Mystic companions, again I spent some time with the scent of the original and made a few slight alterations to the Fragrance oil base adding one or two EO’s for longevity and roundness of the tea.

This accord uses Fragrance oil and Essential Oils

Composition: French Ginger, Venezuelan Tonka, Fragrance Oil.

SA – Suitably Attired Australian

Imagine a suitable attired gentlemen taking a leisurely walk surrounded by Green eucalyptus trees that remind him of tweed. He chances upon an Irish traveller who makes the Stirling suggestion that they take tea together.

This is another ‘interpretation’ of Creed’s Green Irish Tweed that uses the same Fragrance oil that Stirling and Mystic use in their GIT interpretations.

I have added EO’s for longevity and to liven up the heart and tops as the Fragrance Oil itself is fairly short lived and rather synthetic. It was fun to dabble, I quite like the scent but I am more interested in pure EO formulations and making something new and interesting. This is a one off.

This accord uses Essential Oils and Fragrance oil.

Composition: Ambergris, Indian Mysore Sandalwood, French Violet, Spanish Lemon, Rosemary, Australian Sweet Orange, Fragrance Oil.

Over that summer two more limited releases were mentioned –

Monsta Myrtle

Described here as ‘a summer, Lemon Myrtle dominant fragrance that rests and accords with other citrus. If you do not like mildly herbaceous, fresh dominant citrus scents then you will definitely not like this’.

Composition: Patchouli, Rosemary, Clary Sage, Lemon, Petit Grain, Lemon Myrtle & a few other things

Acqua di Sydney

Described here as ‘fragrance inspired by Saponifico Veresino 70th which draws it’s inspiration from the Marine classic Acqua Di Gio. This is a fragrance of fresh Marine notes, Lime, Lemon, Jasmine, Peach, Bergamot, Sweet and Sour Orange. It is bright, refreshing and very classic with a dry down that includes Amber, Patchouli, Oakmoss and White Musk’.


That might be all for this first instalment of the Australian Private Reserve collection.  Come back next week for Part Two.


eBay Logo

How to win on eBay?

How to win on eBay? Lots of people have lots of approaches – but fundamentally you need to pay more than the second highest bidder!

Most of my collection was purchased from eBay, usually the US or UK sites.  Apart from postage being a killer, along with the exchange rates, the timezone was never friendly either.

On top of this, even searches from eBay.com.au selecting ‘Worldwide’ will not necessarily show you all the listings actually available!  Let me give you an example, I know that at the time of this post that there are a pair of Rooney brushes listed on eBay.com, the US site.

eBay Listing

OK, so let’s put that description into the ebay.com.au search bar and search for worldwide.

The results are shown below.  These results are the same if I change my primary eBay delivery address to a US address and set a US postcode as the delivery location.  The search results still bring back –

eBay Search Results AU

Of course I could sign out, or use as private window so that my account is not active – but no joy.

You have to use the eBay.com site to actually find the listing –


The odds seem really stacked against us collectors ‘Down Under’.

So I used every means possible to level the playing field!

Automated Search Tools

I used software on my computer that undertook powerful advanced searches across multiple eBay sites.  I ran it as soon as I woke up in the morning, to get UK and US East Coast listings, during my lunch break for US Mid West listings and at night for the West Coast.

While that software is no longer around, there seems to be a range of alternatives no available.  After a quick search I’ve found the following:

There also seem to be apps for your phone that have similar functionality, SeeSpotBid being one that appeared in my search.

The real bargains on eBay are Buy It Now listings, grabbing a VERY collectible razor sold by somebody getting rid of grandpa’s junk at the price they think that grubby old thing is worth.  I’ve seen some real bargains, although usually by collectors in the US – awake and active when these listings go live!

Snipe!

People get really cranky when beaten by a last second ‘sniper’ bid.

“Some lousy sniper beat me with a low-ball bid, I would have paid [US] $150 for that razor”

That happened to be a comment when I was the sniper!

Yes, I did win the auction for less than $US100, and it was a bargain for that razor, as my maximum snipe bid was $US200!  The other collector was not going to win if $US150 was really his limit.  I accept though that if we had be going bid for bid though he may have bid to over $US200 – would he then have been complaining about paying too much?

What really convinced me to snipe was bidding on a very collectible razor with a mismatched description and poor pictures.  I went to bed having put my maximum bid on the razor, $US300, reasonable content that I was at that stage winning at $US30.  Overnight another bidder putting in increasing bids over the time I was asleep beat me.  Sure, maybe they would have anyway, but I’m not convinced!

I’ve had a paid subscription and used Gixen.com for many years.  Solid, reliable and relatively inexpensive.

Local Parcel Forwarding

A parcel forwarding service may not only save you money – it may allow you to convince sellers who really DON’T want to ship to Australia to sell to you in the first place.  Alternatively, it may provide a solution for those times when you win an auction only to be told by the seller that they are not prepared to ship overseas!

There are MANY of these around with free and paid plans.  At present I’m using Planet Express, but this may not suit your buying needs – search for them, check reviews and look at prices.

Find a Friend (or two)

Despite all these best efforts, there can still be times when as an Australian based account you cannot see listings or cannot bid on them.  Fellow collectors, or family or friends overseas can sometimes be a Godsend in these situations.

For a number of years I *may* have been running my searches using a US-based account – it seemed to provide a whole lot more in the results!

Note: the Planet Express link is an affiliate link, no other links or products provide any benefits to me.


In case you are wondering – I didn’t bid on those Rooney brushes!

I hope that these tips may help a little if you are a collector ‘Down Under’.

Happy hunting.


Cleaned H4 Cased Slim

Cleaning Old Razors - Part Three

Cleaning old razors doesn’t have to be hard as I said in previous parts of this post.  In fact, cleaning old razors can be very satisfying!

Before we look at the final results, lets once again be reminded of what a …

“Vintage Gillette Razor. In good condition. See pics for closer details or message with any questions”
Description from online auction listing

… looks like –


From the last instalment you will know that it has been so far so good BUT …

… the case is scratched –

I hit it with some Plastx on a cotton makeup pad and then buffed off with a soft cotton cloth –

Could keep working on it to try and make perfect, but for this exercise – good enough.

Now, turning to the razor …

There was that verdigris I mentioned –

Also some wear and scratching on the head –

Time for 10 minutes in the ultrasonic –

… and finally, a little polish.

I use this product, Ferros Liquid Reflection, which is made in Australia and a gentle polish you can clean up with water.  It contains soft fine alumina.

You can use any gentle car polish, many people I know swear by the Mothers brand.

So, what do you think?

Still some of the verdigris is still there …

… but I’m not looking for perfection on this project.

About an hour in time overall and not a whole lot of gear you might not already have (you can use a smaller ultrasonic just as well BTW).

Cleaning old razors can be worthwhile, as the pictures below show!

Listing Photo H4 Slim 1
Cleaned H4 Cased Slim
Listing Photo H4 Slim 2

Just seen this post?  Check our the first instalment of cleaning old razors ...


Cleaned H4 Cased Slim

Cleaning Old Razors - Part Two

Cleaning old razors doesn’t have to be hard as I said in Part One of this post.

Before we look at the results of the initial clean, lets be reminded of what a …

“Vintage Gillette Razor. In good condition. See pics for closer details or message with any questions”
Description from online auction listing

… looks like –


Once the water boiling water I poured over the soaking razor cools I scrub the razor with the toothbrush and try to remove all visible signs of soap scum.

When the soap scum is gone as far as you can see, I squirt some toothpaste around and scrub again – before rinsing under a tap while still scrubbing . The result –

This is clearly not perfect, and those green areas in the original pictures do mean that the plating is compromised.

The good news is that it seems to adjust and open and close fine.

Cleaning old razors can be very satisfying …

“Born”, or manufactured really, in the forth quarter of 1962 (H4) this 58 year old razor still has some years in it yet.

Basic household kits will address a lot of the issues when the main problem is soap scrum. Given the blade in this razor had a date code (O2) of 1969 this has likely been sitting unused for around 50 years, a lot of basic dirt and grime accumulates in that time.

Cheap toothpaste is a simple, mild, polish , so always my first choice. It is also fairly water soluble so rinsing as you scrub tends to ensure that you don’t leave residue behind.

The toothbrush is a cheap medium or firm one too. I know some people who swear by Denture Brushes which are probably very similar.

In the adjustment mechanism under the head you can see scum and detritus. As the paint is already gone from the number the ultrasonic will help sort that out.

With the soap scum out of the way the spots of verdigris on the handle are more obvious. There are lots of home remedies for removal and even simply soaking overnight in Coke (acidic) is known to work – but it can also compromise more of the plating. Ammonia (or other high alkaline products) are as bad if not worse!

I tend to stick with the Victoria and Albert Museum approach – less is more.

The razor is missing the paint in the numbers, so I can safely throw it in the ultrasonic as well. I will ultrasonic the razor next and then see how it is looking after that.

There are also some fine scratches on the plastic cover – I’m hoping that Plastx will help get them out.

I’ve also had Polywatch recommended to me along with a plastic bistro blind cleaner – I have not used either of these personally.

Cleaner for sure, but not the final product.  Check out the next instalment of cleaning old razors ...